UNSRC Korean Cultural Society

KOREA TIMES
04-21-2011 19:30

A cluster of giant, spiky rocks shaped like knight’s helmets, named Dumunjin, stands on the northeastern seaside of Baengnyeong Island.

By Park Si-soo

BAENGNYEONG ISLAND ㅡ This island should be rich in tourism assets. Picturesque views of mountain peaks “floating” over low-lying sea fog create a scene of a place where the guardian sprits of the mountains featuring in oriental folk tales seem to live.

A cluster of giant, spiky rocks shaped like knight’s helmet on the northeastern waterfront of this island is awe-inspiring. A sand beach whose surface is solid enough for aircraft to land on and take off from is situated here.

Countless colorful bean-sized pebbles engulf another sprawling beach, which is designated as a national treasure. Other exclusive joys from traveling to Baengnyeong include untouched nature, tranquility and fresh seafood.

However, all of these attractions have long been eclipsed for security concerns stemming from military confrontation with North Korea.

Jangsan Cape, a North Korean naval base, is just 17 kilometers away, which is close enough to be seen with the naked eye on fog-free days. A series of bloody skirmishes between the two Koreas that took place in recent years in waters off the island molded its image as a “front line zone” with the constant possibility of North Korean attacks.

Judging from a recent visit to this island, however, I reached the conclusion that labeling Baengnyeong as an “off-limits” area over lingering security fears is likened to a silly decision of boycotting bungee jumping on a knee-jerk fear of heights before knowing how thrilling it is.

“Here is much safer than elsewhere,” said Major Sohn Jung-ho of the 6th Brigade of the Marine Corps that defends the island. Nearly 5,000 armed soldiers keep a vigil there round-the-clock.

Nature-crafted island

Baengnyeong is a home a sandy beach whose surface is solid enough to be used by aircraft. Similar to ones in Naples, Italy and the Isle of Barra, Scotland, the “runway,” named Sagot Natural Runway, stretches out 3.2 kilometers. Small and mid-sized aircrafts landed and took off on the beach until 1985, said Kim Eung-kyeun, a tour guide.

“The solid surface is attributable to tiny particle of sands on the beach,” Kim said. “The reaction between the salt water and sand strengthens it like a formula for making concrete.”

Dumujin ㅡ a gathering of high, spiky rocks shaped like a brave knight’s helmet standing back to back on the northeastern seaside ㅡ is a must-visit destination.
It was designated as the 8th place with a scenic view in 1997. The first Western missionary to Korea landed on the island through Dumujin in 1832.

Baengnyeong is also well known as the “birthplace” of Christianity in South Korea. Junghwadong Church was established here in August 1896, the second Christian church in South Korea. For that reason, the majority of the 5,000 residents here believe in Christianity. No Buddhist temples exist.

A beach covered with bean-sized colorful pebbles is another must-visit destination. These are round and smooth, forming ideal conditions to walk barefoot on it. It is designated as a national treasure so taking samples from the beach is punishable by law.

Lesson on security

Baengnyeong is critical in military strategy for its proximity to the North. Jangsan Cape, a North Korean naval base, is just 17 kilometers north of the island, which is close enough to be seen with the naked eye in good weather.

Pyongyang insists the maritime border should be drawn further south, including Baengnyeong as part of its territory. This means a military clash within the disputed ocean is a constant possibility.

In fact, several bloody skirmishes between two Koreas have broken out in recent years in waters off the island. The worst naval incident in the country’s post-Korean War (1950-53) history ㅡ the sinking of warship Cheonan that killed 46 sailors ㅡ occurred last year in its vicinity.

A memorial tower was erected on a cliff that looks down the site of the tragedy on the occasion of the first anniversary of the tragedy that fell March 26.

A military official described the location of Baengnyeong as a “dagger aimed at heart of an enemy,” referring to its closeness to Pyongyang, the North Korean capital.

A military observatory on top of the 184-meter Mt. Upjuk, affiliated with the 6th Marine Brigade, offers many views of Jangsan Cape. The observatory is available for citizens after making a reservation at Ongjingun office (www.ongjin.go.kr) at least one week in advance.

Critical disadvantages

Two critical disadvantages stand in the way of the island being a popular tourism destination. First, it takes nearly five hours to get there from Incheon by ferry, the sole public transportation available.

It is located 170 kilometers northwest of Incheon as the crow flies. But non-combat boats have to sail a 240-kilometer route that is designed to detour disputed waters with the North.

Second, nobody can say for 100 percent sure whether travelers here will leave as scheduled ㅡ nearly 30 percent of ferries are delayed or cancelled due to “capricious” weather conditions. For more information about Baengnyeong, visit www.ongjin.go.kr.

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KOREA TIMES

A bowl of samgyetang at the Korea House. The steamy hot chicken dish is a favorite to brush off the heat and frustratio of summer. / Korea Times photo by Shim Hyun-chul

By Han Sang-hee
Staff reporter

Put away your ice cream and turn to spice and steaming hot dishes for the summer. The hotter, the better.

Sometimes, to deal with the scorching weather during the summer, many people search for cold and refreshing snacks and dishes such as “patbingsu” (shaved ice with sweetened red beans), “naengmyeon” (buckwheat noodles served in a cold broth) or ice cream, but Koreans tend to follow the ancient saying “iyeol chiyeol,” which literally means “control heat with heat.”

“If you consume cold food just because it is hot, your stomach and organs will get cold, possibly leading to flu. (Korean) ancestors understood this mechanism and ate warm or spicy food to protect the organs from getting too cold. When they ate naengmyeon, they would add some mustard, which is under the `hot’ category of food, and would not drink cold water at once,” said Kim Young-jo, Korean culture expert and director of the Green Pine Korean Culture Institute in his book “31 Insights on Tasty Korean Culture.”

Scientifically, it’s not a great idea to eat just cold food over and over again, as it will ruin your stomach and appetite in the long run.

Samgyetang: traditional favorite

The most famous summer “boyangsik,” or energy-booster, is “samgyetang” also known as chicken ginseng soup. The traditional dish is famous Korean fare and is a beloved recipe for both locals and foreigners, with its rich and hot chicken stew, soft meat and the delicate rice hidden inside the chicken.

“The ginseng used in samgyetang helps you regain your strength and energy after a long grueling summer day and it’s also good in preventing cancer and for high blood pressure,” said Yoon Sook-ja, director of the Institute of Traditional Korean Food.

Samgyetang is a common dish around the nation, but there are several places that are especially famous. Youngyang Center, which literally means “nutrition center,” offers samgyetang year-long. Their samgyetang costs 11,000 won and is located near Myeong-dong. For more information, call (02) 776-2015.

For a more traditional experience, pay a visit to Tosokchon located in Hyoja-dong, central Seoul. The restaurant is a renewed “hanok,” offering a cozier ambiance than other places. The most famous dish is the samgyetang with its rich stew and soft and juicy chicken and according to photographers, it is the first place they go when they need to take photos of people eating boyangsik in the summer. Call (02) 737-7444.

Stop by the Korea House near Mt. Nam for a fancier samgyetang experience. Consisting of a three-course meal, the samgyetang sold here may be a bit pricy (30,000 won), but it is a meaningful experience for tourists who want go for the whole traditional Korean package. The taste, however, was not that impressive considering the price, but it was different in that it was served in a course meal that included abalone, also good for the body on hot summer days. Visit www.koreahouse.or.kr.

The “yeonpotang” or the baby octopus stew is a favorite “boyangsik” or energy-booster for Koreans during the sizzling hot summer. / Korea Times file

Spicy recipes to savor

Eating spicy food is a good way to combat the heat. There are various recipes and restaurants that offer such dishes and all you have to do is pick your favorite.

“Yukgaejang,” or beef and leek soup, is an excellent choice, as not only is it spicy, but also includes healthy ingredients that will help you regain your strength. The beef helps comfort digestive organs, while the bracken ferns, leeks and garlic also help the overall immune system to get back on track. Numerous restaurants offer yukgaejang, but a famous one in Seoul is the 40-year-old Yukjeon Hoigwan in Mapo and Yongsan. For more information, visit www.yukjeon.com.

“Maeuntang,” or spicy seafood stew, is another favorite. This particular dish goes well after a light meal of sushi or sashimi, and is usually served at Japanese restaurants, seafood markets and seafood restaurants. The main ingredients include fresh fish such as croaker, cod or catfish, various vegetables and a lot of spicy red pepper paste to add more heat.

“Nakji bokkeum,” or spicy stir-fried baby octopus is also popular. Some foreigners may not be acquainted with octopus but it is a favorite among those who are looking for a quick, spicy and hot experience in a dish. Many Koreans enjoy mixing rice with the spicy red sauce, and it will get you sweating in no time. Mugyo-dong, northern Seoul, is especially famous for nakji bokkeum, and visitors can find streets full of restaurants selling it. For those who want something milder, try the “galnaktang,” a steamy clear stew consisted of nakji and ribs, or the “yeonpotang,” baby octopus stew.

For a more modern palate, visit Taco Bell which recently opened in Itaewon a week ago. The famous chain launched its special spicy menu, perfect for both Koreans and non-Koreans to take part in the “iyeol chiyeol” tradition in the summer.

The Soft Spicy Chicken Taco Supreme and the Spicy Chicken Crunch Wrap Supreme are the best items that will attack your taste buds instantly, while beginners can choose the level of spiciness depending on their preference. Visit www.tacobellkorea.com for more information.

If you’re not sure which to eat first and don’t want to be overwhelmed with all the options, start out with something simpler, such as “tteokbokki” or even kimchi. Switch from ice cream to something spicy, and you’ll learn to beat the heat, Korean style.

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