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Kimchi & blue cheese sandwiches, East meets West

June 14th, 2010

Korea Herald

Before you get turned off, please allow me to introduce this recipe and explain the reasoning behind its creation. I did a review a few weeks ago about Pierre Gagnaire’s masterpiece palate cleanser, a sorbet which combines the flavors of kimchi juice, blue cheese, and chicory cream, topped with turnip-curacao. I questioned his judgment when I first heard about this strange combination of flavors, but once I actually tried it, I was astounded at how delicious it was. I wish I could ask Pierre what inspired this most unlikely flavor mash-up. I decided that if combining kimchi and blue cheese — two of my favorite foods — could work in a sorbet, it must be worth experimenting with in other dishes. Sure enough, making a sandwich with these ingredients is worth considering, even if you do not like kimchi or blue cheese.

I introduced the idea of combining kimchi with gorgonzola (a famous Italian blue cheese) to some Italian friends. As expected, they balked at this suggestion. One of them scoffed, “The last thing the strong flavor of blue cheese needs is the even stronger flavor of kimchi! This is culinary blasphemy!” Undaunted, I invited them to taste-test my recipe. I instructed them to bring a bottle of robust Italian red wine to match the strong flavors, and I would provide the gorgonzola and kimchi sandwiches. In the end, the naysayers were amazed. They discovered that, instead of clashing terribly as they’d expected, the blue cheese actually offset the strong kimchi flavor and added lots of tang. The one who’d accused me of “culinary blasphemy” graciously retracted that comment, saying, “It’s most unusual, but this is surprisingly tasty.”

We all know that kimchi is the national dish of Korea, and there are many varieties to complement the different seasons. Winter kimchi is the most widely available and boasts the most varieties. With summer approaching, we’re now seeing summer radish and cucumber kimchi. In this column’s recipe, I used prepackaged Napa cabbage (a.k.a. Chinese cabbage) kimchi, but you can use any kind you’d like.

Kimchi has been around for a long time, and was being made as early as 2600 years ago. Sikyeong, an ancient Chinese book of poetry, mentions kimchi as ji, meaning vegetables soaked in a solution. Kimchi was referred to as dimchae or timchae during the reign of the Baekje and Shilla dynasties. To date, 187 varieties of kimchi have been documented. The infusion of other ingredients from other cuisines, as I have done in this column’s recipe, is giving kimchi a place in the international arena, but in Korea, this fermented vegetable dish has always been a star, both as a side dish and a main ingredient. Kimchi is so ubiquitous in Korea that the first Korean astronaut even took some into space.

As the years passed, kimchi-making also changed, with the addition of spices to produce different flavors, from sweet to sour. The Western world brought chili peppers to East Asia, which first found their way into the kimchi pots around the 17th century, but didn’t become popular until the 19th century.

Regional differences also exist in the making of kimchi. In the northeastern region of Korea, oysters and fresh fish are used to flavor the kimchi thanks to the proximity of the sea. Conversely, they use less salt and red chili pepper in this region. The southern region is warmer than the north and uses more salt, brined anchovies, shrimp, and chili peppers. The mid-eastern region is moderate in the making of kimchi, while the southwestern region uses salted butter fish to season the kimchi.

Kimchi is touted by many as one of the world’s healthiest foods, and rightly so. The nutritional value of cabbage is outstanding and cannot be overemphasized, as is the case with all of the other vegetables with which kimchi is made. (In fact, eating cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables may reduce one’s chance of developing colon and rectal cancer.) Kimchi is an inexpensive food which packs an invaluable nutritional punch. It’s rich in vitamin A, and it’s a good source of potassium. It’s high in dietary fiber and low in calories. One serving of kimchi provides more than half of the daily requirement for vitamin C and carotene, and it’s an excellent source of folic acid. It’s also rich in thiamine (vitamin B1), riboflavin (vitamin B2), calcium, and iron.

And if all that isn’t enough, kimchi also contains lactic acid bacteria, including lactobacillus. Lactobacillus is found in animal feed, milk, and milk products. Certain lactobacilli are used to produce cheeses, sour milk, and yogurt, and they’re important in the production of kimchi. Lactobacilli are also important in the production of beer, wine, sourdough breads, and pickles. According to MayoClinic.com, lactobacillus bacteria live in the small intestine in humans. Lactobacillus acidophilus is accepted as beneficial because it produces lactase, vitamin K, and anti-microbial substances. Medicinal foods and products that contain lactobacillus are called probiotics, and they are hugely popular in today’s world of indigestion caused by too much junky food.

A short note on blue cheese is appropriate here. First of all, the cheese is called blue because the milk, be it cow, sheep or goat milk, has a penicillium culture added so that the final product is veined with a blue-green mold throughout. There are many famous blue cheeses, including Gorgonzola, Stilton, and Roquefort. These are famous cheeses made in specific regions of Italy, Great Britain, and France.

In this unusual recipe, the cheese completes the sandwich by adding a delightful tang and providing protein.

Kimchi & blue cheese sandwiches

2 pieces pita bread, or any kind of bread for sandwiches

100 grams kimchi

100 grams blue cheese (I used gorgonzola)

Toast bread and stuff with kimchi and blue cheese. (You can also use crackers; simply top crackers with blue cheese and kimchi.) Makes 2 servings. Serve with a robust red wine.

By Samia Mounts     (Samiamounts@yahoo.com)

Samia Mounts is a long-time nutritionist and gourmet aficionado. She is the Assistant Principal at Seoul American Elementary School.

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‘Muk’ or molded jelly with seaweed and seasoned soy sauce

June 14th, 2010

KOREA TIMES
06-11-2010 08:57

Korean Cuisine
Kim Yong-ja

You can use either acorn or mung bean jelly, or mix the two to show both brown (acorn) and white (mung bean) colors. They are both very bland. But the sauce and shredded “gim” (seaweed) add a delicious flavor and texture to “muk” (molded jelly).

INGREDIENTS (serves 4)

1 cube MUK cut in half and sliced thin

1 sheet GIM(seaweed), lightly toasted and sliced very thin with scissors “YANGNYEOMJANG” (Seasoned Soy Sauce): 4 tablespoons SOY SAUCE

1 1/2 tablespoons SESAME OIL 2 teaspoons SESAME SEEDS 2 teaspoons GOCHUGARU (chili flakes)

1 small GARLIC CLOVE, crushed

1. Combine the sauce ingredients (except scallion) and chill in the refrigerator for two hours. Add scallion just before serving.

2. Arrange muk slices on the plate and pour the sauce generously over it. Garnish with the shredded seaweed.

This is an excerpt from “Korean Cuisine: Healthy Food, Full of Flavor,” (Yekyong Publishing, 224 pp., 28,000 won). The book is on sale at major bookstores such as Kyobo Bookstore, Youngpoong Bookstore and Bandi & Luni’s. - ED.

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Hanok: Quest for beauty, tradition

June 14th, 2010

Korea Herald

It’s a wonderful time of the year with bright sunshine and a cool breeze. Everything around us is so precious and beautiful that we do not want to miss any of it. Sometimes, staying in the city is boring. As the weekend comes, you pick up a tour guidebook or a metro map. However, there are houses where you can fully enjoy the beauty of nature while inside. They are traditional houses of Korea — hanok.

Hanok are built in a totally different way from modern buildings made of cement, glass, and rebar. They are made of stone, wood and clay — natural materials. Hanok has also adapted to the climate and customs of Korea over thousands of years. However, as cities expanded and things changed rapidly, hanok were regarded as inconvenient living spaces and disappeared very quickly. Today, Korean people typically live in an apartment. Fortunately, an increasing number of people understand the significance and value of hanok.

Hyehwa-dong Community Center

A hanok was comprised of several independent buildings. The Anchae (main building) was the space for women, located at the furthest point from the main gate. The building of an anchae is composed of the anbang (main room), andaecheong (main floor), geonneonbang (small room) and a kitchen.

The sarangchae was the space for men, serving as both study and reception room for visitors. It was usually located near the gate. Some rich families had another building called a haengrangchae, which served as a residence for servants and storage for grains and other things.

In modern society, the distinction has disappeared. There is no distinction between spaces for men and women in today’s hanok. Unique features of hanok are ondol for heating and maru for cooling. Ondol is a system that heats up the floor of a room and circulates warm air inside the room. Maru is a floor with open windows in front and back that allow a breeze to pass through. With these two features, a hanok is warm in winter and cool in summer. This arrangement is well-suited to the climate of Korea.

In addition, the arrangement of rooms and maru is well-balanced to allow privacy as well as communication. But the best feature of a hanok is that it embraces nature. As soon as you open the door, you are able to welcome the sunshine and wind into your room. The yard and garden can be enjoyed while you are sitting in your room, too.

Of course, a hanok also has its shortcomings. The bathroom is located far from the main building, and using the kitchen is not convenient. A newly built hanok improves on such shortcomings by applying a modern architectural style. Hanok built a long time ago are being renovated to have bathrooms put into the main buildings and include modern style kitchens.

A hanok is now regarded not as an old and outdated house but as chic and luxurious one. Since the decoration of hanok was considered as important as the utility of a house, hanok hold remarkable artistic value, too.

People who make hanok – Carpentry artisan Sim Yong-sik

Sim Yong-sik

The framework of a hanok is made of wood. Those who deal with wood are called mokgong (carpenter). Mokgong are divided into two categories, daemok (major carpentry) and omok (minor carpentry). Daemok is to build the framework of a building, and somok dresses up the framework by decorating it with carved pieces. In other words, daemokjang (major carpenter) establish the foundation and outline of a house and then somokjang (minor carpenter) decorate the interior of the house. Making furniture is also the work of a somokjang.

Sim Yong-sik, designated as the Intangible Cultural Property No. 26 of Seoul, has been working with wood for 42 years. One afternoon, I visited his house, Cheongwonsanbang. Cheongwonsanbang means a clear and rounded residence. As I walked through the gate, a neat pebbled yard greeted me. On the left and the other side of the gate were residential spaces, and on the right was his workshop. When I met him, he was working in his workshop. As a thin layer of wood was planed away, the aromatic scent of pine tickled my nose. He said that he enjoyed the scent of wood even though he has worked as a carpenter for more than 40 years.

“When I was an elementary school student, there was a carpenter’s shop in front of my school. Whenever I passed the shop, I really loved the scent of wood from the shop. As soon as I graduated from elementary school, I went to the carpenter to ask him to teach me carpentry.”

The carpenter sent him back saying he was too young. After three years, he went to the carpenter’s again, and he has been working with wood ever since. Numerous tools hung on the wall, illustrating the path that he has followed. We moved to the living room of his residence and had tea together. Pillars, window frames and paper windows looked clean and new, leading me to think that his house had been built very recently. However, the house was built in the 1930s, and renovated by Sim as he moved in. He scrubbed the old dirt off the wood pillars one by one and changed the layout of the house.

“Hanok comforts people’s minds. You can naturally reflect about your behavior and enjoy meditation in a hanok. You feel like you are outside even when you are inside the house. Just opening a door makes you united with nature.”

This is the charm of hanok identified by him. As a matter of fact, when entering the gate, I felt like I was in a different world. It seems that there is a huge curtain between the busy outside world and his calm and relaxing hanok. Because of such unique charm, more foreigners are now living in hanok.

“Wood is very sensitive to humidity. Before the monsoon comes, we need to put camellia oil or other vegetable oil onto the exposed wood pillars and frames. Such maintenance makes people think hanok requires much maintenance. However, it is not different from painting a Western-style house from time to time.”

As I sat in the living room sipping a cup of tea and enjoying the tast, my nose was busy with the scent of pine. It was natural air freshener from the wood used to build the house. The scent of wood does not disappear even after decades and centuries. Sim’s house is located at the back alley of Jaedong Elementary School in Bukchon Hanok Village. The gate remains open most of the time. Anyone who wants to see a hanok is always welcome.

Various uses of hanok

Ryugaheon, a hanok gallery

Even if you do not live in a hanok, there is a way for you to stay in a hanok for a few days. There are hanok guest houses, not only for travelers but also people living in Korea who want to experience hanok life. Hanok, made with red clay and wood, is also very good for your health. Papered windows instead of glass windows, walls papered with hanji instead of paint or ordinary wallpaper and traditional bedding instead of a modern bed will give you precious memories. Opening the door in the morning will bring freshness of the garden into the room. You won’t believe that you are in Seoul as you enjoy a serene morning in a hanok.

Hanok act not only as a simple living space but also as a cultural space. In addition to cafés and galleries, Hyehwa-dong Community Center is located in a hanok building for the first time in Korea. The U-shaped building was renovated to have a glass wall, blending tradition and modernity. Sometimes, foreign visitors attracted to the hanok community center building come to see it. Since it is very close to a famous tourist attraction, Daehangno, it is worthwhile paying a visit if you are in the area. Parasol tables and chairs are provided for visitors at the center’s courtyard.

There is a hanok gallery, Ryugaheon, too. Ryugaheon means “to flow and sing together.” The gallery opened in 2009, and exhibits photographs. Even though it is a small gallery, it already has many fans in Seoul. The owner of Ryugaheon is a famous photographer. Thanks to hanok’s unique sensibility, it is also one of the best places to appreciate artwork. After enjoying the artwork, you can sit on the maru and have some tea. This is something you cannot experience in other galleries.

(Tip)

Cheongwonsanbang

(02) 715-3342, www.sungsimart.com
Reservations recommended: Tuesday-Friday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
How to make a reservation: Make reservations through telephone or Internet one day before the visit
Visit without reservation: Saturday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Open to all visitors without prior reservation.

Ryugaheon

(02) 720-2010 www.ryugaheon.com
Open hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. (7 p.m. during summer)
Closes on: Monday

Bukchon Guest House

(02) 743-8530 www.bukchon72.com
Rate: Single 40,000 won, Twin 60,000 won, Double 70,000 won, Timple 70,000-100,000won

Tea Guest House

(02) 3675-9877 www.teaguesthouse.com
Rate: Single 50,000 won, Double 80,000 won, Special suite (2 bedrooms and private garden) 160,000 won

By Bak Dong-sik

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