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Royal palace grounds show off Korea in bloom

March 30th, 2010

JoongAng Daily

Cherries, apricots and spicebush add spots of color to the beauty of ancient architecture
March 26, 2010
Apricot trees blossom last year on the grounds of Deoksu Palace in central Seoul. Provided by the Cultural Heritage Administration

A leisurely stroll around town during the peak flower viewing period is an early spring ritual for many.

The ephemeral nature of the blossoms themselves means those so inclined have only a small window of time in which to enjoy themselves.

It’s almost time to stroll around the grounds of Korea’s palaces and take in the sights, sounds and scents that the royal class enjoyed during springs of the past.

Although it’s still early, royal palace officials said several fragrant spicebush trees are blossoming, but visitors will have to wait a few more days before the other flowers catch up to the early bloomers.

The unusually cold spring weather has delayed blossoming somewhat, but spring is just around the corner. As it always does about this time of year, the Cultural Heritage Administration released the dates when flowers are expected to bloom at the royal palaces in the central Seoul area.

The first things to blossom were the spicebush trees at Changdeok Palace last week. Colorful apricot, Chinese plum and Korean cherry trees, among others, are expected to bloom later this month to early April around the royal palaces in the central Seoul area.

A trip to the palaces will not only provide the beauty of bright flowers set against the backdrop of the ancient royal structures of the Joseon period (1392-1910), but can also reveal some interesting tales about the daily lives of the royal class in the gated grounds of the palaces.

“The prevalence of Korean cherry trees on the Gyeongbok Palace grounds is largely due to the fondness King Sejong [1397-1450] had for the trees,” explained Park Sung-jin, a professor at Kyungpook National University and an expert on royal palace trees in Korea.

According to “Yongjaechong-hwa,” a 10-volume book written on Joseon-era politics, society, policy and culture by scholar Seong Hyeon (1439-1504), King Sejong’s fondness for Korean cherries was so great that Prince Munjong (1414-1452) personally planted Korean cherry trees around Gyeongbok Palace.

Known as a filial son, Munjong would himself pick the ripe fruits off the trees and wash them four to five times before serving them to his father.

Apricot trees were favored for their healing power and medicinal value.

The seeds were considered a cure-all in traditional medicine, which had more than 200 uses for them.

“According to “Goryeosa” [or “History of Goryeo”], a sickly Emperor Munjong in 1078 asked for medicine from the Chinese Song Dynasty. A delegation that included a medical practitioner and medicine was sent, along with 10 bottles of special liquor made with apricot seeds,” said Park.

While some tree species hold special meaning in the history of the royal palaces, as Park explains it, ancient court records show that the species currently seen in what are now Seoul and Gyeonggi were planted on the grounds of royal palaces.

There were also types of trees which were forbidden from royal palaces: Those with thorned branches or hollow trunks could not be planted in the grounds, because those properties could not be associated with the king.

Korea’s tree population has changed throughout the years.

One example is the red Japanese maple trees at Changdeok Palace, which were planted during the Japanese colonial era (1910-1945).

“Not too many trees from the ancient past exist on the palace grounds. Most of the existing trees on the royal palaces were planted during the restoration period of 1984-85,” said Park.

“I would have to say Changdeok Palace is the only remaining royal palace with some trees from before that time.”

Spicebush flowers, top, started to blossom late last week. Middle, in the South Jeolla region, pink apricot flowers bloomed early this month. Tree peonies on the Deoksu Palace grounds, bottom, bloomed last May. [CHA, YONHAP]

For spring flower viewing, timing is of the essence. According to the initial reports released by the Korea Meteorological Administration in February and early March, flowers are expected to bloom later this year than they did last year.

Unexpected changes in weather patterns can delay blossom dates, and the recent spring cold snap pushed the dates back.

“The overall expected dates will be delayed by an average of two days around the country and by a day in Jeju Island,” said Chun Jun-seok, director of the Climate Prediction Division at the administration.

Although many believe that Korea has had an unusually cold winter and spring, with the longest cold snap lasting for roughly three weeks between mid-December to mid-January and another stretch of cold weather in early spring, Chun says this year is not that different from past winters.

“In the past, cold winters averaged temperatures of 15 to 17 below Celsius [5 degrees to 1 degree Fahrenheit]. In comparison, this winter temperatures averaged 13 to 15 below. In that regard, it’s not too far off the norm. The difference is in the recovery period,” stated Chun.

“Usually recovery periods of two to three warm days follow cold snaps, but the cold temperature persisted for an extended period of time this winter and spring, making it feel colder than usual.”

By Jason Kim [jason@joongang.co.kr]

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Jjimjilbang: a microcosm of Korean leisure culture

March 30th, 2010

KOREA HERALD

This is the 71st in a series of articles highlighting tourism spots in Seoul. The guide for planning weekend trips in the capital city will help readers rediscover Seoul. - Ed.

By Annabelle Lee

This winter has been bitterly cold and snowy. It even snowed after Gyeongchip, the day on which insects are said to emerge from their holes in the earth. Gyeongchip is the third of 24 divisions of the year in the lunar calendar, which signifies that the season changes from winter to spring. Around this time, ice on the rivers starts to melt, hibernating animals start to wake up, tree branches bud, and farmers prepare for planting. People say that Gyeongchip is the day when frogs wake up from their hibernation.

One day during a cold spell, I met Charles from South Africa. South Africa is located in the southern hemisphere where the timing of the seasons is the opposite to Korea. Charles left summer in South Africa about three months ago and arrived here to a Korean winter. Winters in South Africa are much milder than those in Korea, and during Charles’ three months in Korea, the weather has been anything but.

“It was so cold,” he said. “However, I was very happy to see the snow. It was the first time in my life I experienced snow. I had so much fun in the snow, snowball fighting, sledging and making a snowman.”

Charles and his girlfriend Hannah, his colleague Lim Jae-won and Lim’s children, So-ra and Sung-mook joined me on a trip to a jjimjilbang.

The jjimjilbang we visited was the Dragon Hill Spa, located next to Yongsan Station in Seoul. Yongsan is a little world of its own in Seoul and Itaewon is right around the corner. Many tourist attractions such as the National Museum of Korea, Yongsan Family Park and the War Memorial of Korea are located in Yongsan. In addition, it is near Dongbuichon-dong, the nearest thing Seoul has to a Japantown. There are international schools located there, so diplomats and foreign business people live in the area. Yongsan is also famous for the electronics market and is a departure point of the KTX, Korea’s high-speed train. Travellers who have 2-3 hours until their departure time often come to the Dragon Hill Spa.

‘Jjimjilbang?’

Charles did not fully understand what a jjimjilbag was, since he came to Korea only a few months ago. He was half curious and half worried about going to one. After receiving the locker keys, Charles and Hannah went to the locker rooms and changed into jjimjilbang clothes - loose fitting t-shirts and shorts. Charles and Hannah, meeting each other in their jjimjilbang attire, shrugged their shoulders and exhanged embarrassed looks.

The first room we visited was the “salt room,” which has walls plastered with salt, and coarse salt pebbles underfoot. Our 9-year-old group member, Sung-mook, curious to see if the room was made with real salt, tasted the wall and frowned. He confirmed that it was really salty. The salt room was too hot to walk around in bare feet. As we reclined and talked to each other, beads of sweat began to form. Sweat ran down our backs and our foreheads. Kids came into the room and then left the room to cool themselves down. Hannah also seemed to have a good time talking with Charles. Lim lay straight on his back. The salt room is considered to detoxify your body.

Lamb’s heads, sikhye, and boiled eggs

After a while, all of us gathered in the main hall. It was like a lounge with a TV set, massage chairs and a snack bar. Lim bought sikhye and boiled eggs from the snack bar. Sikhye and boiled eggs are must-eat snacks at the jjimjilbang. Sikhye is a traditional Korean drink made with rice and malt. Icy cold sikhye is very refreshing after sweating in the hot rooms. Roasted eggs are another good snack to fill your stomach after sweating.

Another jjimjjilbang tradition is the lamb’s head towel hat. Korean’s say that when you roll a towel and put it on your head, your head looks like a lamb’s. This is called the jjimjilbang lamb’s head look. Wearing these lamb’s head hats and eating eggs, we all felt united and chatted with each other. In Charles’ and Hannah’s hometowns, there are steam spas where people have steam baths after working out at the gym. We talked about other bathing cultures, such as Finnish saunas and Japanese open-air baths.

At lunch time, Hannah ordered mulnaengmyeon, Charles ordered jajangmyeon, the kids ordered pork cutlets, and Lim ordered miyeokguk. After lunch, the kids headed straight to the swimming pool, and the grown-ups scattered to enjoy various types of rooms, such as the pine log fire sauna, the Japanese cypress room and the ice room.

One of the most unique and interesting aspects of Korea is the jjimjilbang. Going to one is a very Korean and very popular activity that ordinary people can afford. Korean women especially love jjimjilbang. This may be because Korean mothers sometimes take care of themselves in hot rooms made of red clay for three weeks after giving birth. In addition, in days gone by, people cooked rice on the fire in red clay furnaces. The far infrared radiation from the red clay was thought to prevent women’s ailments and warmed bodies.

“Jjimjil” means heat bath to make people sweat using hot air. In some senses, it is similar to a sauna. However, the far infrared radiation emitted from red clay, elvan stones, and germanium heated to a high temperature (over 700 degrees Celsius), passes 4-5 cm beneath the skin and facilitates cell activities and blood circulation. The far infrared radiation also reduces pains in muscles, back, shoulders and joints. Higher body temperatures are also good for the immune system.

In addition to these physical benefits, the jjimjilbang helps us to relieve stress while we have fun with our families and friends. While karaoke and movie theaters are for young people, and bars are for adults, a jjimjilbang is a place for people of all ages.

The jjimjilbang is a microcosm of Korean leisure culture. When you go to a jjimjilbang, you can find gyms, baths, barber shops, playgrounds for kids, karaoke, PC cafes, golf putting ranges, nailcare shops, massage rooms, cafeterias, restaurants and swimming pools. If you have not visited a jjimjilbang, you cannot say that you know Korea.

Famous jjimjilbang in Seoul

Dragon Hill Spa is a huge luxury jjimjilbang with 13,223 square meters of space. Dragon Hill Spa was selected as one of nine places recommended to business travelers by CNN. It is also a member of the Magic Boarding Pass Program of Asiana Airlines, so a customer with an Asiana Airlines boarding pass will get 50 percent off the price of admission. There is a customer service hotline provided in English, Chinese and Japanese (02-797-0002).

l Location: Next to My Wedding Hall

at the plaza of Yongsan subway station,

subway line No. 1.

l Admission fee: 5 a.m.-8 p.m. 10,000 won,

8 p.m.-5 a.m. 12,000 won

l Information: 02-792-0001

l Website: www.dragonhillspa.co.kr

Siloam

Siloam is located at the back of Seoul Station and uses natural germanium bedrock water pumped up from 300 meters underground. It is popular with both individuals and groups because it offers a variety of convenient facilities. In particular, sectioned sleeping rooms are very popular.

l Location: No. 1 exit of Seoul Station subway station, No. 5 exit of Chungjeongno

subway station

l Admission fee: 5 a.m.- 8 p.m. 9,000 won,

8 p.m.-5 a.m. 12,000 won

l Information: 02-364-3944

l Website: www.silloamsauna.com

Oasis

Oasis is a family-friendly jjimjilbang with various sports facilities such as a gym, golf range, and an aerobics room equipped with the best and most advanced equipment, as well as a hotel-class sauna, family rooms, and a DVD theater for kids. There are foot acupressure machines, a sports massage shop, a nailcare shop and an “aesthetic shop” located here. After working out, visitors can enjoy the cozy jjimjil rooms such as the salt room and the pyramid room or relax while soaking in natural bedrock water.

Discount coupons of 30 percent are available at www.zzimzilbang.com

l Location: No. 1 exit of Janganpyeong subway station, 4th floor of Yesin Plaza building after getting off at Jangan4-dong Office

l Admission fee: 5 a.m.- 8 p.m. 6,000 won,

8 p.m.-5 a.m. 8,000 won.

l Information: 02-2241-9900

What is the origin of jjimjilbang?

Theory one: The origin of Jjimjilbang can be traced back to the Joseon Dynasty. The first mention of Jjimjilbang is found in the “Sejong Sillok,” the royal chronicles of the Joseon Dynasty. It recorded that 2 people each from Jeonuigam (a medical school) and Hyeminseo Jesaengwon (a public hospital for the poor) were selected and sent to Hanjeungso. Hanjeungso was similar to today’s Jjimjilbangs. This was during the 15th century. Given the fact that doctors were selected and sent to Hanjeungso, Hanjeungso seems to have been a private medical clinic. When we imagine the structure of Hanjeungso, we can envisage 13-16 square meter floor, which was walled with red clay and granite rocks to build a 5m-high dome-shaped room. The room was heated with the fire in the furnace for 5 hours, and water was sprinkled on the floor to adjust the humidity.

Theory two: People entered pottery kilns or charcoal kilns which remained hot after baking potteries or charcoals. Far infrared rays from the red clay and germanium were thought to have some remedial effects on people.

News Clippings

Rice With Mix of Vegetables (Bibimbap)

March 30th, 2010

KOREA TIMES
03-25-2010 18:02


Bibimbap

By Kim Yong-ja

This is the most versatile dish in Korean cooking. The word “bibim” comes from the action of the ingredients rubbing with each other when you mix them. There are endless possibilities for toppings.

The beauty of this dish is that you can prepare all the seasonal vegetables in advance and serve at room temperature. All you need to do is to cook the rice one hour before you want to serve it. You can add or reduce the number of vegetables as you wish. It’s up to your imagination.

INGREDIENTS (serves 4)

• 10 1/2 oz/300g ASIAN RADISH, cut into fine strips
• 1 tablespoon “GOCHUGARU” (fine chili powder)
• 1 tablespoon RICE VINEGAR
• 1 bunch SPINACH, blanched
• 1 pack BEAN SPROUTS, cooked in boiling water for 1-2 minutes
• 1/2 cube MUNG BEAN JELLY, cut into fine strips
• 1/2 cube ACORN JELLY, cut into fine strips
• 2 medium CARROTS, cut into fine strips, stir-fried with oil
• 1 pack SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS, sliced and stir-fried with oil
• VEGETABLE OIL
• 2 cups RICE
• 4 EGGS, cooked sunny side over
• “CHOGOCHUJANG” (Hot and Sweet Vinaigrette): see “Chamchi Whe”

MILD SAUCE:

• 3 tablespoons SOY SAUCE
• 4 tablespoons SESAME OIL
• 1 teaspoon SESAME SEEDS
• 1 GARLIC CLOVE, crushed fine

1 Sprinkle salt over radish strips and let sit for 1/2 hour 1/2 Squeeze out excess water holding them in your palms. Then season with 1 tablespoon gochugaru (fine chili powder), 1 tablespoon rice vinegar and 2 teaspoons sugar.

2 Prepare all the other vegetables and season lightly with salt and pepper.

3 Cook the rice. While the rice is cooling, prepare chogochujang and mild sauce. Then fry the eggs. Spread the rice into individual bowls. Rice should be at room temperature (but not cold) when you serve.

4 Arrange the vegetables and the eggs over the rice. Serve with the two sauces on the side.

janee@koreatimes.co.kr

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