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Get a taste of traditional Korea

March 11th, 2010

KOREA HERALD

A tea ceremony set

Tea and kimchi: The two seem worlds apart at first. But not to tourists seeking to discover Korea. A taste of kimchi will help their understanding of Korea’s food culture, while drinking tea is a great introduction to Korean courtesy and manners.

Two women from Singapore spent the past three months preparing for their journey to Korea this winter. They decided to visit Yoo’s Family for an unforgettable experience of Korean culture. “Dado,” the art of drinking tea, and kimchi making were eye-openers for the two travelers. They never lost their cheery smiles throughout the experience.

This is the 69th in a series of articles highlighting tourism spots in Seoul. The guide for planning weekend trips in the capital city will help readers rediscover Seoul. - Ed.

Written by Yoon Kyoo-Sik

Korean winters inspire a special feeling of anticipation to people living in Southeast Asia, where it is warm year-round.

The on-going Korean Wave is ushering more foreign tourists to Korea. Cindy Phua (30) and Ong Lai Chun (27), both researchers in Singapore, were just two such people.

Three years ago, Phua and Ong were co-workers. Although they now work in different places, they got decided to experience the Korean winter together and took a week-long trip here at the end of February. Starting from Jeju Island, they planned to experience Korean culture and visit ancient palaces. They also wanted to spend a day shopping for cosmetics in Myeong-dong. The two excited travelers had searched the internet for places to visit and food to try, setting up a perfect schedule before they departed. They had found out about Yoo’s Family on the internet. Here, they would be able to experience dado and learn how to make kimchi. So, one drizzling February morning, Phua and Ong entered through the hanok gates of Yoo’s Family.

Dado, beauty in moderation

Located next to Changdeok Palace, Yoo’s Family is situated in a neat hanok building. The raindrops falling from the eaves added a special aura to the picturesque house. The building itself is more than a century old, but its interior has been renovated to create a cozy, comfortable living space. The temperature had come down with the rain, but the floors of the building were nice and warm thanks to the traditional ondol under-floor heating.

It was Phua and Ong’s first time visiting a Korean home and experiencing dado. Their dado teacher for today is Huh Im, who runs the house. As she collects the necessary things for their dado experience, her gentle smile and modest, modernized hanbok create an ethereal harmony.

With a calm voice, she explains how to pour tea, hold a tea cup and drink it. Phua and Ong follow her instructions and hold the tea cups to their lips. The dado lecture proceeded smoothly but the solemn atmosphere kept them alert. They had to sit kneeling down, an important part of the custom.

Mistress Huh Im then taught them that when offering tea, it is a common courtesy to offer the guest another cup of tea after the first cup. While preparing the second cup, she continued, refreshments must be brought in. The refreshments of the day were hangwa, Korean traditional sweets and cookies. The two eager faces brightened as they bit into the sweet, crispy hangwa. They looked at each other and nodded in appreciation.

While they enjoyed their tea, Huh spoke about Korean culture and hanok buildings. The dado experience in the solemn but unoppressive atmosphere has left a deep impression on Phua and Ong.

Making Korean kimchi

In addition to dado, Phua and Ong wanted to learn how to make kimchi. In contrast to their dado lecture, where manners and formalities were emphasized, the kimchi-making was a merry process. While they sliced radishes and chopped scallions to make kimchi seasoning, they talked about everything from serious issues to funny stories.

Phua had first tasted kimchi three years ago through a Korean friend while studying in New Zealand. She had been captivated by the crispy, spicy taste of kimchi, and had wanted to learn how to make Korea’s favorite food.

Finally, the seasoning was ready. They each picked a pickled cabbage leaf, added some seasoning, rolled it up and popped it into their mouths. The spicy, savory taste of kimchi filled their mouths as they readied another leaf. Phua and Ong taste each other’s kimchi and smile.

Their kimchi was neatly packed, ready for them to take home. They turned down the offer for the packaging to be made tighter for them to take back to Singapore — they could not wait. They just asked for simple packaging so that they could enjoy their kimchi as soon as they returned to their hotel.

Interview:

Cindy Phua (30) Research Officer

Ong Lai Chun (27) Research Associate

▲ How was your experience today?

It was both fun and interesting. I didn’t know kimchi was made of pickled cabbage and chili powder seasoning.

▲ How was your dado experience?

Sitting on my knees was extremely difficult. My legs hurt throughout the lecture. It was my first time, but I would like to experience it again. I love dado. I want to buy the dado set and take it home with me.

▲ Do you drink a lot of tea in Singapore?

We usually just drink tea made from a tea bag. Not many young people drink tea the traditional way. Only those who are interested enjoy it.

▲ How do you like kimchi?

Aged kimchi and less fermented kimchi taste different. I like the spicy taste, but more than that, I love the crispiness when you bite into it.

▲What is your impression of Korea?

Korean people seem very busy. They are always walking very fast. We want to walk through the streets of Myeong-dong and buy a lot of cosmetics. Korea has a lot of high quality, affordable beauty products.

Yoo’s Family

Yoo’s Family, run by the Yoos as the name suggests, operates various programs that give people the chance to experience Korean culture in a hanok. The programs are directed by the family’s daughter-in-law, Huh Im. If needed, an interpreter assists communication between the lecturer and students.

Participants can experience Korean domestic culture, which is unusual for a tourist program. The main programs include the traditional tea drinking ceremony, “dado,” wearing traditional dress, learning Korean courtesy and manners, making kimchi, and lessons in Korean cooking.

The program has continued for more than a decade, and thousands of foreign tourists have participated. People who join the program come from diverse backgrounds — from ordinary tourists through foreign students and even businessmen. Reservations can be made online or by telephone.

Inquiries: 82-2-3673-0323, www.korea-family.co.kr

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Colorful fields, flower-speckled paths

March 11th, 2010

JoongAng Daily

가지끝에서, 땅바닥에서 … 거문도 동백꽃은 두 번 피더라
March 11, 2010
Mugwort fields covered with colorful dragnets dot Geomun Island. By Sohn Min-ho

Each spring, the southern region of the country beckons me. This year, I decided to visit Geomun Island, which is about two hours off the coast of Yeosu, South Jeolla.

I had the luck of getting a tour of the island on the back of novelist Han Chang-hoon’s motorcycle. Born and raised on the island, Han still lives there today.

When I asked him about the scenery on the island this time of the year, Han offered up a mundane response.

“Let’s see,” he said. “There’s nothing different about the spring. It’s windy as usual and despite the strong waves, fishermen go out to sea. It’s the same as usual.”

Upon further inquiry, Han explained that all the women on the island spend their days this time of year tending to the mugwort plants that pervade the farms each spring.

“Mugwort harvested from Geomun Island is supposedly good. It fetches a high price. Recently, a processing factory was opened here,” Han explained.

However, it wasn’t exactly easy to find green-hued fields of mugwort - at least until the islander led me to a field blanketed by colorful nets.

“Look closer. Beneath the dragnet coverings are mugwort,” Han said.

Upon closer inspection, I discovered that my host was right: the field was indeed full of mugwort.

“The wind is so strong here that we cover the plants. Excessive exposure to the strong sea breeze can dry up the plant. The covering allows some of the wind and sunlight to carry through. It’s strange, but mugwort thrives under the dragnet yet weeds don’t,” he said.

A path leading to the Geomun Island lighthouse is covered with flowers from camellia trees.

I looked around and saw many mugwort fields. Each dragnet was a different color, making it seem as though the island was covered by a large quilt.

It was an unusual and interesting sight.

Geomun Island actually consists of three separate populated islands: Dong Island, Seo Island and Go Island.

What is interesting about these three islands is that over 70 percent of the trees on them are dongbaek, or camellia trees. This is the reason that the place is sometimes referred to as Dongbaek Island.

Han led me down a path toward Geomun Island lighthouse. The path might as well have been called Dongbaek Road, because each side was lined with camellia trees taller than the average person, providing a shaded walkway.

“The flowers on the camellia trees on the island blossom during the winter season,” Han said.

Indeed, the path was littered with flower pedals that had fallen from the camellia trees.

The flowers drop from the branches before they begin to wither away. Hence, unlike other flowers that lay withered and dried on the ground, the beauty of the dongbaek flowers remains in tact. For this reason, the path should perhaps be closed off to the public during the spring months. It’s sad to see the beautiful flowers getting trampled by passersby.

As the last stop on the tour, Han took me to Go Island.

The highest point of Go Island is Geomun Elementary School. We strolled past the elementary school and into the well-kept British Navy Cemetery, which is covered by yellow rape flowers this time of year.

On April 15, 1885, a British naval ship arrived on Geomun Island, and the British Royal Navy set up a naval station there.

It would take the Joseon government close to a month to find out about the incident. What is more surprising about all of this is that the sailors stayed isolated on the island for close to two years. During those years, three British sailors died. According to records from the time, the deaths were the result of an accidental explosion.

The natives of the island tell a different story, though.

According to the version of the story told by residents of Geomun Island for well over 100 years, the British sailors and the islanders got along quite well and even came in contact frequently.

The Brits stayed on Go Island while the natives largely dwelled on Seo Island. There was no bridge connecting the two islands at the time. Some of the sailors were said to have swam across out of curiosity, and some of them supposedly drowned.

The ferry to Geomun Island departs from Yeosu at 7:40 a.m. and 1 p.m. each day and returns at 10:40 a.m. and 3:40 p.m. The cost is 36,000 won ($31.75) for a round-trip ticket.

One of the most popular tours in the area involves cruising around Baek Island, which sits roughly 28 kilometers (17.4 miles) to the west. The cruise, which costs 29,000 won, rounds the uninhabited Baek Island for roughly two hours.

*For more information, visit www.geomundo.co.kr or call (061) 665-7788.

By Sohn Min-ho [jason@joongang.co.kr]

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Bellflower Roots With Chili Vinaigrette (Doraji Namul)

March 11th, 2010

KOREA TIMES
03-11-2010 18:43


Bellflower Roots
With Chili Vinaigrette

This is an excerpt from “Korean Cuisine: Healthy Food, Full of Flavor,” (Yekyong Publishing, 224 pp., 28,000 won). The book is on sale at major bookstores such as Kyobo Bookstore, Youngpoong Bookstore and Bandi & Luni’s. . ED.

By Kim Yong-ja

“Doraji ” (bellflower root) has a faint scent of herbal medicine and a bitter taste. When it is combined with sweet and hot spices, it creates a unique tingling flavor. Raw and cooked bellflower roots have totally different flavors. I definitely prefer them raw.

INGREDIENTS (serves 4)
• 2 oz/57g (a handful) DRIED DORAJI, soaked in water
• 1 tablespoon SALT
• 2 teaspoons RICE VINEGAR

SAUCE
• 2 teaspoons SESAME OIL
• 1/2 teaspoon SESAME SEEDS
• 2 teaspoons GOCHUGARU (fine chili powder)
• 1 small GARLIC CLOVE, crushed fine
• 1/2 teaspoon SUGAR

1 Soak doraji in water until soft, then drain the water. Cut the wider ends in two and shred fine with your fingers.
2 Sprinkle with salt and vinegar and let it sit for 3-4 hours. Rinse under cold running water. Squeeze out excess water by pressing them in your hands.
3 Mix doraji with the sauce.

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