Pierre Gangnaire artfully fuses French and Korean
Korea Herald
Fusion kitchens are fashionable today, which adds to the creativity needed to move forward in the global society of the 21st century. One would think that many restaurants have uncovered all possible food creations — but that is not true according to Ferran Adria, renowned for his three-star Michelin El Bulli Restaurant in Barcelona, Spain. Despite the fact that Adria is closing his restaurant for two years to become a part of the vanguard of the next food revolution, there is still so much creativity just waiting to be tapped out there, but people have to know the myriad of ingredients that are available and discover how to incorporate them into known recipes. The world of food has not been explored fully as has the world of medicine, but the Internet and globalization has made it possible to import foods from all over the world. We have not discovered 10 percent of what is available worldwide because we fear the unknown and are comfortable with what we know. I personally have developed a salad dressing from Korean products and I dare not reveal the ingredients. My recipe is written on a piece of paper in pencil for only my daughter to know.
I had the privilege to attend a dinner with the Chain Des Rotisseurs last month at the Lotte Pierre Gagnaire Restaurant on the 35th floor. Lucky for me, I was sitting with many food experts from several hotels. I fantasized how it would feel if I were with an interesting man rather than with foodies; Imagine sitting next to a hot date while eating food created by Pierre Gagnaire. … That was a fantastic three hours of enjoying exquisite food and wine that matched like peaches and cream, champagne and strawberries, or white wine and oysters.
What Pierre Gagnaire created was a masterpiece. His imagination is beyond expectation. Pierre transformed kimchi juice into jelly and used it in a sorbet as a palate cleanser. Visualize kimchi used as a palate cleanser! It worked like a charm by adding turnip-curacao granite, chicory cream, and blue cheese. French ingredients fused into Korean ingredients? He used abalone from Wando in South Jeolla Province, local beef, and soju. Imagine how many countries there are and how many different cuisines are available. The choices could approach infinity! There are many dishes one can create, but only a handful of chefs dare to push the envelope with research and experimentation.
Dinner with Pierre is a precursor for love in the air. I had the time of my life and rarely do I feel this way because the ambience and the creations far exceeded most people’s imagination. As I walked into the hotel, I was greeted by the hotel concierge who escorted me to the elevator that whisked me to the 35th floor. The view was spectacular and once I approached the dining room I was assigned to a table with brilliant foodies and may I also say, these men were easy on the eyes. One of the guests mentioned that Pierre must be under much pressure tonight. My response was, “Without pressure, there is no creativity.”
I would like to begin with what the fantasy dinner included. I will take you through the eight courses that will guarantee “love will be in the air” before you are midway through the dinner. Take a minute to fantasize about what that feels like. The menu was so unusual; it took my breath away because of the infusion of many Korean ingredients, to include Italian de Parma prosciutto with chestnut puree and steak tartar. Yes, I was impressed … and it is not easy to impress me. Pierre knows how to infuse ingredients of different cuisines with ease, creativity, and class. I have no doubt he has researched every ingredient and their composition because that is what it takes to create a new and exciting menu.
The menu was as follows: As we walked into the room, we were served champagne and cylinder shaped wafers made with parmesan cheese. It was a nice start, because one should coat the stomach with an appetizer that will line the stopmach.
The first course consisted of oak-leaf lettuce stuffed with crab and vegetables, served with Pouilly-Fuisse Domaine Jadot 2006. The second course was custard of chicken and green juice, langoustines; radicchio foam. The third course was thin slices of abalone from Wando in a vegetal juice strongly peppered to include zighy-bay marmalade with a Vacqueyras Domaine Montirius 2004. The fourth course was sliced scallops poached in rosemary butter with cucumber and capers brunoise and corn cream with raspberry. Did you ever think that is possible? The fifth course was the palate cleanser to prepare the palate for the main course. The chicory cream and blue cheese, kimchi juice jelly; turnip-curacao granite was mind-blowing.
The question I would ask, “Was the sorbet a palate cleanser to get one ready for the main course?” I think it was although some would disagree. I am honestly still debating this most unusual combination. I would love to ask Pierre about his rationale for this combination.
The 6th course was grilled filet of beef rolled in fresh herbs blended with roasted chestnut puree and crispy Parma ham. Dregs of red wine with raisins, grated cocoa classical tartar, frosted omija. The wine to match the main course was Margaux Chateau Brane Cantenac 2004
The 7th course was unctuous camembert, small dices of truffle biscotti bread; yogurt ice-cream. That combination was amazing. Biscotti bread? I’d never heard of it before.
The final course was a served with one of my favorite wines; Sauternes Chateau Lamothe Guignard 2006 was the essence of heaven. Peel of Yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit), soju parfait, blackcurrant pulp emulsified with olive oil. Dried fruits sorbet, confit orange and abinao meringues. Syrup gelified with saffron. Chocolate: Mellow biscuit, creamy ganache and breaking disc. Lemon cream and caramelized nuts.
Where else in the world can one come up with such divine combinations? It may seem as if there was an overabundance of food, but the truth is, I felt great and I did not feel I had too much to eat. I would have not served the bread as it was not necessary. Water was not served unless one asked for it.
A note on The Chaine Des Rotisseurs, which is an international gastronomic society, dedicated to bringing people together who understand and share interest in food, wine, and fine dining. If you are interested in learning more, go to the international website http://www.chaine-des-rotisseurs.net/ or the Korea website at http://www.chainekorea.org/ or for a local person, e-mail Bernard.brender@hilton.com
Samia Mounts is a weekly food columnist for the Korea Herald.
By Samia Mounts