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Political TV: a story of censorship and taboo

March 3rd, 2010

JoongAng Daily

March 04, 2010

In 2007, a character on a historical drama turned to one of his political opponents and said, “Are you saying you have nothing to lose?” The line provoked a firestorm of comments.

The character was King Jeongjo, the 22nd ruler of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), and the show was “Hanseongbyeolgok” on KBS. And the line was controversial because it closely resembled a comment made by Roh Moo-hyun, who was president at the time.

Even a reference as oblique as that one in a period drama would have been forbidden under the military regimes that governed Korea from the 1960s to the ’80s.

Still, Korea has no realistic “political dramas” in the vein of American shows like “The West Wing,” which aired from 1996 to 2006. That show won a record nine Emmy awards in its first season, and was a huge ratings success, earning more than $200 million for NBC after production costs.

Strangely enough, Roh was a great fan of The West Wing, and he said he would watch DVDs of the show every weekend. After viewing several episodes, Roh reportedly said that the communications depicted between the president and his aides closely resembled his ideal for the Blue House. In fact, at one time, he tried to change the layout of his aides’ offices to resemble the West Wing of the White House more closely.

Korea may not have any present-day political dramas, but it does have period shows that deal with modern history. These got their start on the radio. In 1967, TBC - a now-defunct affiliate of the JoongAng Ilbo - aired “The 20 Years After Liberation,” which explored the events from the end of the Japanese occupation in 1945 to the May 16 coup d’etat by Park Chung Hee in 1961. The drama aired for 10 years, and dealt with sensitive issues such as the political controversy over the 1951 massacre of civilians in Geochang, South Gyeongsang, by a South Korean battalion during the Korean War, negotiations between the two Koreas, and the 1956 assassination attempt on Vice President Jang Myeon by a sniper. Its treatment of taboo subjects made it a huge hit.

In the 1970s, Korea saw its first television shows dealing with political issues, such as “Park Maria,” about the life of the titular character, who abused her husband Lee Gi-bung’s place as a protege of President Syngman Rhee before the couple finally committed suicide together when the April 19 Revolution collapsed the Rhee administration. The producers were determined to show the public the corrupting potential of power. But the Park Chung Hee military regime eventually forced the show to an early end for reasons that were never revealed.

From that point on, Korean political dramas - even if set in the past - faced endless obstacles.

Ko Suck-Man produced MBC’s TV show “The First Republic” in 1981 under the Chun Doo-hwan dictatorship. The drama, which also told the story of the Rhee administration, was actually very close to a documentary, according to Ko, with actors and actresses re-enacting episodes based on facts. He said, “These documentary-like dramas were Korea’s unique form of the political show,” made fictional to give themselves a claim on objectivity and to avoid controversy.

Still, even that often wasn’t enough. Ko recalled that after a certain episode aired, he was summoned by the National Intelligence Service and forced to resign from the producer’s position then and there.

Ko later served as the head of the state-run Korea Creative Content Agency between 2007 and 2009,

The second series in MBC’s “Republic” franchise, “The Second Republic,” started in 1989 under the Roh Tae-woo administration, and since then the network continued recounting modern Korean political history until the last series, “The Fifth Republic,” which told the story of the Chun Doo-hwan regime, aired in 2005.

In 1995, “The Fourth Republic,” set in the 1980s, included then-president Kim Young-sam as a character, a young opposition party leader. It was the first time that an incumbent president had been depicted on TV, and the producers reportedly had difficulty finding an actor brave enough to take on the role.

The final series, “The Fifth Republic,” provoked mixed reactions. Actor Lee Deok-hwa’s charismatic turn as President Chun invited complaints that the show was beautifying the dictator, whereas some former aides of Chun, including Hur Hwa-pyung and Chang Se-dong, accused MBC of distorting history.

Though Korean producers of dramas no longer face direct pressure from the administration, they still risk lawsuits if they choose to depict still-living politicians.

To avoid these difficulties, dramas that depict contemporary politics have begun to incorporate creative details. For example, “City Hall,” which aired on SBS last year, is based in a fictional city, Inju. The protagonist is a young, low-ranking female public servant who is elected mayor.

The crew insists that politics is only a small part of the show, and that City Hall is actually a romantic comedy. Still, the drama slyly commented on timely political issues. Citizens disparage the previous mayor, who spent public funding on his own projects but still won re-election. The protagonist’s comments, that politics are nothing but petty conflict between political parties, clearly reflect the opinion of much of the public.

Despite its sometimes cheesy narrative, City Hall set the standard for a new type of political drama. According to culture critic Lee Young-mi, “Previous political dramas were like documentaries, simply moved from the radio to the TV, but more and more ‘drama-like’ dramas are appearing.”

The nature of Korean historical dramas is also changing along with their political counterparts. As more contemporary shows break out of documentary and tell a fictional story, period series are beginning to incorporate contemporary political issues.

For instance, some have compared the conflicting relationship between Buyeo, an ancient Korean kingdom, and Han Dynasty China in MBC’s 2007 historical drama “Jumong” to the relationship between North Korea and the United States.

Still, critics say Korea lacks a drama gutsy enough to seriously take on contemporary issues in a modern setting. Why has no one stepped forward to try? Such a show would obviously require a realistic script written by someone familiar with politics.

Kim Han-gill, a writer and former lawmaker, believes, “The West Wing’s success may be credited to its subtle, believable details and interesting scripts. But as of yet, it is difficult to find a drama writer [in Korea] who possesses that capacity.

“On the other hand,” he continued, “one is not simply able to write such a script just by having political knowledge. The entire cast and crew and the writer must work as one team in order to highlight the dramatic facets while maintaining strong, realistic details. Funding is also an important factor.”

Ko said he also believes that Koreans need to adopt a cultural mindset that accepts TV shows for what they are - fiction.

The First Republic producer Ko has experienced both as a producer of a political drama and as an aide in the Blue House, so he offered his vision of what would have happened if The West Wing had been a Korean show about the presidential office in Seoul.

“Korean viewers would have become obsessed with matching fictional characters with certain currently active politicians,” he said, calling this tendency a great burden for the producers of political shows.

Despite these difficulties, two new political dramas are scheduled to be aired this year. “The President” will follow a man in his 50s who goes through a grueling campaign and eventually overcomes obstacles to become elected to Korea’s highest office.

The other one, “Daemul,” is already causing a sensation as it will feature as its protagonist the first female president of Korea. As a human rights lawyer, the character builds up a reputation for fighting social evil, which she rides to the Blue House.

However, the producers emphasized that Daemul, based on a comic book series of the same title, should not be regarded as an earnest political drama - seemingly worried about the audience tendencies Ko mentioned.

Still, the door is far more open to political dramas here than it ever was in the past, with no oppressive dictator to censor television broadcasts. And television production companies have reached the conclusion that the public now increasingly seeks realistic political dramas.

Former lawmaker Kim said that he has been approached to create a “real” political drama. If citizens can tune into such a show that depicts Seoul’s halls of power as they are, Kim mused, perhaps their complaints would grow more measured.

By Hong Joo-hee, Lee Jeong-min [estyle@joongang.co.kr]

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Korean cuisine makes waves at the World Economic Forum

March 3rd, 2010

JoongAng Daily

‘Preparing for the event was hard work, but we all learned something.’
March 04, 2010
Park Hyo-nam, executive chef at the Millennium Seoul Hilton in central Seoul, led a culinary team that introduced Korean cuisine at an event called Korea Night in Davos, Switzerland, in January.

The tranquil and snowy town of Davos, Switzerland, lit up on Jan. 28 for Korea Night, an event held as part of the World Economic Forum. That evening, the convention hall in the Schweizerhof Hotel, where the event was held, was crowded with more than 800 people, with a guest list that included several world leaders, and each of them was holding a plate of Korean food.

During the five-hour event, guests were served dish after dish of finely prepared and presented modern Korean cuisine.

“Since many foreigners aren’t used to the concept of sharing food from the same plate, we decided to cook the dishes in small portions, like finger foods, so that they would be able to taste it in one bite,” said Park Hyo-nam, executive chef at the Millennium Seoul Hilton in central Seoul. That night, Park was in charge of providing information about authentic Korean cuisine to the foreign guests.

The event was hosted by the Federation of Korean Industries and President Lee Myung-bak, with assistance from the first lady, Kim Yoon-ok.

“It was a blast,” Park said. “Everybody loved it.”

Park started cooking at the age of 17 and was hired to work at the hotel in 1983, when it was founded. Currently, he is the only Korean executive chef working in a multinational hotel chain. In 2006, he was given the Medaille du Merite Agricole (Order of Agricultural Merit), awarded by the French government.

It took Park and his team of seven Korean chefs nearly three months to prepare the menus and concept for the evening, which was “taste of green,” referring to dishes with plenty of fresh vegetables.

This so-called dream team of chefs came up with 22 Korean dishes, from appetizers to desserts. The menu included exotic dishes like king crab wrapped with seasoned cucumber and pear and stir-fried abalone wrapped with white kimchi, and old favorites like grilled galbi (beef ribs), tteokgalbi (beef ribs with rice cakes), bibimbap (mixed rice with vegetables) and dakkangjung (fried chicken with sweet sauce), which is known to be the first lady’s favorite dish. Park said it was the first lady’s idea to add dakkangjung to the menu.

“We wanted to introduce the various types of tastes representing Korea’s eight provinces,” Park said proudly.

With the awareness that many foreigners have a difficult time adjusting to the spiciness of Korean cuisine, the team prepared two types of bibimbap - a spicy one and a nonspicy one. With the spicy version, rice and vegetables were mixed with gochujang (chili paste); in the milder version, soy sauce was used as seasoning instead of the spicy pepper paste.

“Surprisingly, eight out of ten guests picked bibimbap mixed with gochujang,” he said, with disbelief in his eyes. “I came to think that many Koreans, including me, tend to have many misconceptions about the foreign palate.”

Samsaek manduguk (three-color dumpling soup), with dumplings stuffed with kimchi, tofu and meat, was one of the appetizers served on Korea Night. Provided by the hotel

Although the event was a success - President Lee gave the chefs a pat on the back and the guests praised the high quality of the food - the preparation process was not that easy, according to Park and his team of chefs. Park said that “it was like making the most out of a little.”

“In general, it’s very difficult to make Korean cuisine in other countries, where there is a lack of the right ingredients and the cooking tools are different from what we have at home,” he said.

To prepare for the event, Park made a two-day visit to the Davos hotel to meet with local chefs. They helped him assess which ingredients he would be able to purchase in Switzerland and which ones he would have to bring with him on the day of the event.

“The ingredients that were difficult to find there were things like soy sauce, doenjang (bean paste), and sesame oil,” he said. “There were other ingredients that we had to bring with us, like pears and ginseng specific to Korea. However, we were able to get most types of vegetables, such as cucumbers and carrots,” he said.

Another obstacle presented itself when Park was told by the Swiss chefs that his team would not be given full use of the hotel’s kitchen facilities during the event because the hotel still had to provide service to its regular customers. So on the day of the event, the Korean team arrived at the hotel at 4:30 a.m., before the local chefs were scheduled to start working, and prepared the ingredients they would need for the evening. When the hotel chefs arrived at around 6 a.m., the team was ready to turn the kitchens back over to them.

“We didn’t have our own kitchen,” Park said. “Preparing for the event was hard work, but we definitely all learned something. And it’s all part of the process of promoting Korean food.”

The chef also made note of his culinary philosophy that food can be both a remedy and at the heart of a nation’s power.

“If Korea were not as developed as it is now, we wouldn’t have an opportunity to introduce Korean food outside of Korea,” he said. “Food is also a way to maintain health,” he said. “And Korean food proves that.”

By Lee Eun-joo [angie@joongang.co.kr]

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A taste tour of Seoul’s best restaurants

March 3rd, 2010

JoongAng Daily

March 04, 2010

When you’re out and about and looking for a tasty bite but don’t know where to go, look for a crowded eatery or, better yet, a restaurant with a long line outside. It’s a sure sign that the restaurant will provide more than a simple stomach-filling meal.

Where do the taste-conscious go to seek delicious meals? The following is a brief list of some of the most popular restaurants around Seoul.

Gamssarong

Gamssarong’s burger [JES]

Hamburgers do not have to come from a fast-food joint. Tasty homemade burgers with thick juicy beef patties topped with fresh vegetable toppings are available at smart local restaurants such as Gamssarong.

Known for their thick patties, Gamssarong is popular for the important reason that its owners do not use frozen meat. All of the patties are prepared in the morning and the doors to Gamssarong close once all of the patties prepared that day have been sold.

The popularity of the restaurant and its burgers has grown by word of mouth, and the fresh burgers often sell out before 8 p.m. on the weekends.

Menu: A Gamssarong burger with a juicy beef patty topped with tomatoes, onions, a fried egg and cheese goes for 8,400 won ($7.29).

Hours: Noon to 10 p.m. (closed Mondays)

Location: From Sangsu Station (line No. 6, exit 1), walk straight and make a right at the Juchajang Golmok (Parking Street). Continue walking up the street and make a right at the corner with Joe’s Sandwich shop. Gamssarong is on the first street to the left. (02) 337-9373

Donburi

Clockwise from top: Donburi’s katsudon, Samwol Sujebi’s soup and Eulmidae’s naengmyeon

Koreans like to get their rice fix. For many locals here, a meal is not complete without a steaming hot bowl of rice. It is perhaps for this reason that Donburi’s katsudon - a Japanese-style rice bowl topped with tonkatsu (pork cutlet), eggs and condiments - is always a favorite with diners.

Donburi offers traditional Japanese rice bowls at affordable prices. However, those interested in visiting must be forewarned: It is not unusual for diners to wait for approximately 30 minutes to an hour on weekends for a taste of Donburi’s katsudon.

Menu: Donburi’s most popular dish is katsudon, which costs 6,000 won per bowl.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9:40 p.m. (closed Mondays)

Location: From Hongdae Station (line No. 2, exit 5), head toward the Hongdae playground. Then, walk in the direction of the Juchajang Golmok, go past the intersection and make a left into the alleyway where restaurant Bongchu Jjimdak is located. (02) 3141-8398

Samwol Sujebi

Sujebi, or soup with handmade dough flakes, is relatively simple to make but Samwol’s anchovy soup base and chewy dough make this spot a popular destination for visitors at all hours of the day.

Menu: Samwol Sujebi offers galguksu (noodle soup), sujebi and a mix of both. The most popular dish is, of course, the sujebi, which sells for 4,500 won per bowl.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Location: Go to Daechi Station (line No. 3, exit 4). (02) 556-8229

Eulmidae

The Pyongyang-style naengmyeon (cold soup with rice noodles) is the must-eat dish at Eulmidae. Unlike the chewy naengmyeon you may be accustomed to, Pyongyang-style noodles are made of buckwheat and are not chewy but soft. Hence, there is no need to cut the noodles with scissors prior to serving as you would with the more common mul (water) naengmyeon.

Menu: A bowl of naengmyeon is 7,000 won.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Location: From Daeheung Station (line No. 6), head toward the Yeomri-dong Community Center. (02) 717-1922

By Choi Eunchorong [jason@joongang.co.kr]

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