Traditional Markets: Blooming with Culture
KOREA TIMES
02-11-2010 16:58
 A vender displays her grains at Suyu Market, Seoul, Monday. The sign translated into English reads, “100 percent Korean grain.” Traditional markets, including this one, offer various products, from grains to meat, vegetables and tasty snacks. /Korea Times Photos
by Shim Hyun-chul |
By Han Sang-hee
Staff Reporter
The trickling rain didn’t stop Shim Young-mok from opening his small stall to sell “bbeongtwigi,” or puffed rice, at Moran Market, Seongnam, Tuesday morning.
Despite the grueling weather, there was a line of old housewives and visitors waiting for Shim to start his day.
“I have been selling bbeongtwigi since 1986, so it’s been over 20 years. There might have been some change in terms of sales, but people still enjoy eating the traditional snack. We have all been through rough times, and so I’m just hoping for the best,” he said, getting ready to pop the rice out from the machine.
Traditional markets are interesting and full of life, but their popularity has dwindled due to larger and more modern department stores and shops. The David versus Goliath battle has been going on for quite some time, and the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism has started a year-long project to revive traditional markets and offer them a helping hand to get back into business.
A Bit More, or Less, Than Megastores
“Miss, don’t you need some jeon? We have all kinds! Come see!” Yu Geum-ja, 65, shouts out to passersby walking slowly by her stall.
Yu has been making and selling jeon, or traditional pancakes, for the past 30 years at her stall “1 Million Jeon” in Suyu Village Market, northern Seoul, but she has been seeing a drop in business over the past couple of years.
“It gets harder year after year. Young housewives and shoppers prefer department stores, although they know that the jeon sold there are not as good as ours. There’s nothing we can do but to make tastier jeon with fresher ingredients,” she said as she tried to attract passing customers by flipping the jeon on a hot grill in front of her at the same time.
Currently, there are two department stores nearby with people crowding to get in.
“It’s actually crowded now because we are a week ahead of Lunar New Year,” Yu added.
Despite the threat of bigger stores, many customers still enjoy coming to the market to get a glimpse of the energetic life it portrays.
“I visit the market with my son to snack. My wife also shops here. It’s more interesting and lively than department stores, and I also think it’s good for my son to learn how they run,” Kang Seong-hwa, 50, said as he ate a corn dog with his young son.
Youn Myung-sook, who also frequently visits markets, added that shopping at traditional markets is more than just purchasing goods.
“It’s cheaper and we get a lot of extras,” she said.
Extras or complimentary goods are easily found in any traditional market. Unlike mega stores where the products, especially vegetables, are packaged or weighed following a strict price and quantity range, traditional markets offer goods in a “friendlier” way. When the buyer hands over the money, the vendor puts in some more of the product.
“It’s known as the `extras’ culture and this can only be found in markets,” Youn, 52, said.
Another important feature are the relatively cheaper prices.
According to the Korea Agro-Fisheries Trade Corporation, traditional markets are 25 percent cheaper than bigger marts. While the average cost for preparing a traditional morning ritual food altar for the Lunar Year is 171,500 won for a family of four at the market, it takes approximately 40,000 won more to buy the same supplies at megastores. Vegetables made up the biggest difference by 33.4 percent, while meat was cheaper by 23.3 percent.
“Of course markets are cheaper. They are fun, there are so many things to see, we are cheaper, plus we give out `doems’ [extras]!” Yu said, handing over a plastic bag full of hot, steamy jeon for this reporter and photographer.
Adding Culture to Market Streets
Suyu Village Market was chosen by the culture ministry late last year for a campaign to revive traditional markets. The three others participating are Jayu Market in Mokpo, South Jeolla Province; Bangcheon Market in Daegu; and Hansan Traditional Market in Seocheon, South Chungcheong Province. The ministry is planning to bring cultural events and special projects to attract both vendors and visitors to bring back the heyday of traditional markets.
In 2008, Motgol Market in Suwon, Gyeonggi Province, and Jumunjin Market in Gangneung, Gangwon Province, were appointed as designated markets, and they have since tasted success in attracting customers and vendors as well.
“I’m not sure if it’s because of the ministry’s project, but it’s true that the cultural events and performances have given our market a distinctive characteristic,” a stallholder in Suwon said.
Motgol Market offers a small lounge for visitors looking for a place to stop and rest. It has also started its own radio show called “Motgol Air” run by the vendors. Five “DJs” take turns hosting the one hour show that starts at 11:30 a.m., offering various events around the market and also short stories that help vendors continue their day with a smile.
According to Gangbuk-gu office, Suyu Market not only offers fresh food and products, but also raises the image of markets.
New goals include discovering rich cultural content within the marketplace, sharing the area with vendors, visitors, customers and artists.
Every Tuesday, the market arranges a book-cart for vendors who are interested in reading books, while some have teamed up to create a culture magazine about the market.
Bringing cultural events may be an effective way to gain attention, but some think it’s important to promote the market and bring cleaner, safer and more comfortable facilities for customers.
“I like coming to the market, but sometimes, I think events can be disturbing. It’s fun, but sometimes you start thinking `I’m here to shop, not to watch a performance,”’ a visitor who declined to give her name said.
Nevertheless, vendors at Suyu Market are more than eager to participate.
“I can feel that the ministry and the district office are trying very hard to promote the market. We have gift certificates and are planning various events, and although it’s a bit overwhelming, we all decided to try them out. If the buyers like it, then there is nothing better,” said Kim Seon-hee, who has been running a “tteok,” or “rice cake” stall for more than 30 years.
When asked why she was wearing a “hanbok,” or a Korean traditional costume, she smiled shyly.
“It’s for the customers. It may catch their attention and since I’m selling rice cakes, I thought it was a nice finishing touch.”
