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Westerners Capture Early Modernization in Korea

January 25th, 2010

KOREA TIMES
01-22-2010 16:37


Cover of “Korea Through Western Eyes,” written by Robert D. Neff and Cheong Sung-hwa. (Seoul National University Press; 434 pp., 25,000 won).

By Chung Ah-young
Staff Reporter

Korea endured a long, self-imposed isolation from much of the world up until the 19th century. Once it opened its doors to the West, Korea went through major modernization ― from an agricultural society to a modern industrial one.

With modernization came an increased amount of incoming people from the West, who arrived here for various reasons. Whatever purposes they had, they had to adapt themselves to a new way of life.

“Korea Through Western Eyes,” written in English by Robert D. Neff and Cheong Sung-hwa, delves into the lives of Westerners in Korea and their struggles to live in Korean society during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

The book features impressive black-and-white photographs that capture a part of Korean society rarely seen in other historical records. Anecdotes reveal the unknown stories behind the modernization, and how Koreans and Westerners interacted with each other back then.

Diplomats, merchants and missionaries were among those that came from the West. Most settled down in Seoul, Jemulpo or Busan. For them, Korea was an untrodden path to explore.

The early modernization of Korea cannot be discussed without mentioning Paul Georg von Mollendorff, one of the most well-known Westerners here in the late 19th century. He was the first Westerner to hold a high advisory position in the Korean government, which allowed him to affect policy.

Mollendorff contributed to the early stages of modernization in the areas of customs, the provision of electricity, telegraph and postal services, and the development of the country’s natural resources, including gold, silk, timber and agriculture.

Many of the Westerners claimed to have been trusted by King Gojong but Mollendorff’s relationship with Gojong seemed different from others. He adapted himself completely into the local culture, learning to speak Korean (which many non-missionary Westerners did not do), dressing and acting much like a Korean, and even using a Korean name, Mok In-dok.

But despite his attempt to modernize Korea in various fields, he eventually made mistakes that led to his being removed from his position, his reputation tarnished.

Although Korea may have been one of the last countries in the East to open to the West, Korea was able to build an electrical power plant before China or Japan. Electricity was a symbol of modernization and power. It was a means by which King Gojong could demonstrate to his own court that China was not as advanced as the West.

But the Korean ruler was often the object of disdain from Westerners for their beliefs and superstitions. Thomas W. Power, an electrical engineer who helped construct an electrical power plant at Changdeok Palace, used King Gojong’s alleged fear of the darkness to force the Korean government to pay his back wages.

The introduction of electricity sent mixed signals ― to some Koreans, it was the introduction of progress and modernization, but to others, it was the introduction of Western ideas that simply clashed with their own beliefs and compromised their traditional way of life.

It was also used as a tool used by both Westerners and Koreans to exploit the superstitious. But electricity was eventually accepted and illuminated not only the palaces, homes and the streets of Seoul, but also the minds of the Korea people to modernization.

Misconceptions about technology and foreigners continued to grip Koreans. One of the examples was the “Baby Riots” during the summer of 1888 when some Koreans took to the streets after the discovery of mutilated children who they believed had been maimed by Westerners and their modern technology.

After the signing and ratification of the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between Korea and the United States in 1882, a few Western diplomats and employees of the Korean government began living in Korea. But by 1885, missionaries and businessmen began coming to Korea in large numbers.

Many of them had difficulty obtaining necessities such as food and shelter. The Westerners, including the diplomats and advisors, often lived at homes that were vacated after the noblemen who lived in them were killed in action.

The book is written from these early Westerners’ point of view, using foreign records such as government archive material from the United States and Europe, autobiographies, books, newspapers, and interviews with people who lived in Korea and their descendants scattered around the world.

Their accounts are filled with anecdotes and opinions that cannot be found in official records, and are presented alongside personal photographs that vividly capture the era.

chungay@koreatimes.co.kr

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A night among the ancestors

January 25th, 2010

JoongAng Daily

Korea’s traditional mansions offer accommodation to guests seeking to connect to centuries of history.
January 22, 2010
Visitors to Nongam House can drink a cup of buckwheat tea on the wooden porch as they enjoy the view of the Nakdong River flowing by. By Studio Lamp

Most people here would swear nothing drives away the winter chill like lying down on the warm floor of a traditional Korean home with a loved one or a good book. If there’s a beautiful view out the window, so much the better.

That’s exactly what the owners of Korea’s traditional mansions-turned-hotels are counting on. With 108 of these historic buildings providing accommodation through the Korea Tourism Organization Web site, there’s never been a wider range of options. Some show their long history on the surface, their ancient wooden structures a testament to old-fashioned craftsmanship, while others offer the comfort of modern technology along with a classic look.

Foremost in the former category is Nongam House, the oldest house in Korea, located in Andong, North Gyeongsang. It’s been about six centuries since the home was built, and 17 generations of families have lived in it, making it a museum of lifestyles long gone.

The house is named after its first owner, Lee Hyeon-bo (1467-1555), a scholar during the Joseon Dynasty, who was known by his pen name Nongam. He served King Yeonsan (1476-1506) at court until he was exiled in 1504 to the Andong region, before recovering his office under King Jungjong (1488-1544).

Lee became a well-known writer with masterpieces like “Eobusa,” or “Fisherman’s Song,” a paean to the simple life.

So it’s not surprising that the house Lee built could inspire a poem or two.

Removed from any major roads, it still bears an air of seclusion. The Nakdong River flows by the front of the house, with wide white sandy beaches. In the fields, a solitary cow leisurely grazed as Lee Seong-won, the eldest living male descendent of Lee Hyeon-bo, spoke about his ancestral home.

“I want to use this place not just for lodging but a place where I can teach people about Korean traditional life,” Lee Seong-won said.

The house, covering 6,600 square meters (1.6 acres), is shaped like the “d” consonant in the Korean alphabet. About 30 meters (98.4 feet) away from the house, there is an annex with four small rooms called Bungang Seowon. It is said that Lee Hyeon-bo would read and write here, and the building was later used as a school for Confusion scholars.

Inside each room are two sets of blankets, a janggi board and a tea set. Although the 600-year-old house may not have TV or the Internet, it has individual bathrooms as well as heat and air conditioning.

Those modern conveniences may be a disappointment to visitors hoping to live as Lee once did, but ironically it’s simply too costly to continue heating the floor with firewood the traditional way.

Before having dinner, guests enjoy tea on the wooden porch, with a perfect view of the Nakdong River. The buckwheat tea is made from grain grown by Lee Seong-won himself.

Dinner is a feast of traditional Korean cuisine cooked by the female heads of the household, Lee’s mother and wife. They prepare about eight different side dishes, accompanying a stew made with dried radish leaves. All the ingredients are fresh and many are local, including mackerel, which Andong is known for. The meal ends with sungnyung, the boiled crust of overcooked rice that usually remains at the bottom of the pot.

Cooking is not allowed around the main building of the house due to the danger of fire, but there is a grill available nearby if visitors want to enjoy a picnic.

The day ends with a game of janggi, sometimes called Korean chess, or yut, a traditional game played with eight sticks that are thrown like dice to move across a board.

Wake up the next morning to the chirping of birds in the distance, and the doors made from traditional Korean paper open to reveal the natural beauty of the mansion’s garden.

Here Lee Hyeon-bo and his close friend and fellow scholar, Lee Hwang, walked and discussed literature and politics - an experience you can replicate. It’s also where Lee Hwang wrote his famous poem “Dosansipigok,” about a life oriented toward nature.

Visitors can also enjoy other traditional activities with the guidance of the owner.

Traditional cooking is one example. With reservations required to give the owner a chance to arrange the proper ingredients, guests can learn to make the sweet rice beverage sikhye, songpyeon rice cakes and Andong noodles.

Most people may head to old houses like Nongam to experience life away from everyday worries. And if Nongam is full or too far, there are many other houses like it available across the country. The Ocheon Gunja town, also in Andong, is home to many different types of old mansions.

If you’re in the mood for cultural activities, go to either Andong Suaedang or Bukchon Hanok Village in central Seoul. A stay at these houses usually ranges from 50,000 to 200,000 won ($44 to $176) for one night. Lodging at Okyeonjeongsa, also in Andong, which provides higher-end services, is slightly more costly, priced at up to 280,000 won for a six-member family.

For more information on traditional mansions and to make reservations, either contact each house directly or go to www.visitkorea.or.kr to make a reservation online. Reservations are recommended at least a month ahead of time. For more details on the Nongam house, visit www.nongam.com or call (054) 843-1202.

By Min Eun-sil [estyle@joongang.co.kr]

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‘Gun Goguma, ‘Baked Sweet Potatoes with Dark Brown Sugar

January 25th, 2010

KOREA TIMES
01-21-2010 19:40

This dessert is not only very easy to make, but also healthy for you, because of the fiber that the sweet potato contains. Baked sweet potatoes with dark brown sugar

INGREDIENTS (serves 4)
4 medium SWEET POTATOES
4 tablespoons BUTTER
3 tablespoons DARK BROWN SUGAR

1 Heat the oven to 375 F/190 C. Wash the potatoes, line them up on a sheet pan and bake in the preheated oven for approximately 50 minutes until they are very soft.

2 Tear open the skin on one side of each sweet potato and fluff the interior with a fork.

3 Add a piece of butter on each and sprinkle dark brown sugar on top. Serve hot.

This is an excerpt from “Korean Cuisine: Healthy Food, Full of Flavor,” (Yekyong Publishing, 224 pp., 28,000 won). The book is on sale at major bookstores such as Kyobo Bookstore, Youngpoong Bookstore and Bandi & Luni’s. - ED.

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