KOREA HERALD
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| Korea Traditional Wine Institute head Park Rock-dam has restored 850 varieties of extinct traditional alcoholic beverages for more than seven years. [Park Hyun-koo/The Korea Herald] |
The deep and sweet, intoxicating scent of fermenting wine permeated the cool air. Row upon row, shelf upon shelf of ceramic jars released an aromatic prelude to their delicious contents.
That moment, in the storage room at the Korea Traditional Wine Institute, where ancient beverages — once forgotten — found new life, that moment sparked a simple yet true revelation, an answer to a long-standing question.
Why the fuss over traditional alcoholic beverages?
As an institute employee uncovered a fragrant pot of “sogokju” — a restored drink that dates back as far as the Baekje Dynasty and is not to be confused with the market-available Hansan Sogokju, which also originates from the Baekje Dynasty.
“It is an alcoholic beverage that is made with little nuruk (yeast),” Korea Traditional Wine Institute head Park Rock-dam elaborated. “It is one of the famed drinks of the upper classes. … It requires a long fermentation period, from 60 to 100 days. Though it has a high percentage of alcohol in it, it is soft and fragrant.”
The employee dipped a wooden ladle in and pulled it out, dripping, full of fruity grain and liquid. The beauty of it all came at once.
Why would anyone pass up an opportunity for a dipperful of this? What wouldn’t one do for a mouthful of that silken, malty nectar?
Even the government has taken note.
Last summer, according to news reports, the Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the Ministry of Strategy and Finance, and the Presidential Council on National Competitiveness revealed a plan to give the traditional liquor market a 133 billion won ($116 million) boost over the course of five years. The project included a three-year initiative to revive 50 out of an estimated 360 extinct traditional alcoholic beverages that date back as far as the Joseon Dynasty.
While government plans were announced last year, Korea Traditional Wine Institute head Park has been restoring ancient drinks for over seven years. To date, he has revived 850 varieties. Shelves lined with small bottled samples of the restored beverages serve as testimony to his extensive work.
Park is not alone. Prominent brewery Kook Soon Dang has also made its own efforts at restoration. Kook Soon Dang’s project, however, was initiated in 2008, making Park one of the earliest to undertake the task of bringing drinks back from the annals of history.
“The alcoholic beverages ceased to live,” he gestured to the colorful array of bottles. “They only remained recorded in ancient documents. To popularize them, we revive them and teach students how to make them.”
Breathing life into drinks that exist solely through the written word is no simple feat. It took Park 20 trial runs to restore “hahyangju,” aided in part by a mere five lines scripted in a 200-year old book that he keeps in his office.
His passion for traditional beverages emerges as he describes one of his personal favorites, “dongjeongchun,” a drink that is so hard to make that it causes the skin of your hands to peel off.
A drink that was also revived by Kook Soon Dang in May, dongjeongchun, according to a Kook Soon Dang press release, dates back to the Joseon Dynasty. No water is used to make it and only one liter of alcohol emerges from the 4.4 kilograms of rice used to brew it, making it a precious brew.
“Dongjeongchun is very complex,” Park said. “It bears aromas of plum, apples, quince, strawberries, grapes and watermelon. Dongjeongchun in ‘cheongju’ (refined rice wine) form is like honey.”
At the institute, a class of nine starts to knead dough for hahyangju, not to be confused with the Daegu intangible cultural asset of the same name. This hahyangju was restored by Park and reportedly dates back to the 1700s.
Described by students as an apple-scented beverage, hahyangju is a complex concoction.
“A hard-to-make beverage is fragrant, indeed,” the 50-year institute head declared before mapping out the hahyangju-making process, an arduous series of steps that include cooking donut-shaped rice cakes, a period of fermentation, an addition of sticky and cooked rice and another month of fermentation.
“No water is used and it smells like lotus flowers.”
The class has just begun to knead the dough for the donut-shaped rice cakes. Students take turns transforming the mixture of rice flour and water into a wrinkled skirt of dough with the heels of their hands.
Institute employee Lim Jong-in observes the process. It has been around a year since he decided to take a break from farming and enter the world of traditional winemaking.
“Having grown accustomed to traditional alcoholic beverages, I cannot drink sake,” said the 47-year old. Now that he can make his own brews, Lim does not drink store-bought makgeolli. He also has a penchant for hosanchun, especially when brewed by today’s class instructor, the institute’s education and research department head Park Cha-won.
Not to be confused with the North Gyeongsang Province intangible cultural asset of the same name, the institute’s “hosanchun” was another extinct drink that originates from the Joseon Dynasty.
“It is out of this world,” said Lim.
Not everyone, however, can brew their own hosanchun or hahyangju. When asked to recommend market-available liquors, institute head Park picked Moonbaesool as one of the market’s leading distilled liquors.
Designated Important Intangible Cultural Asset No. 86, “munbaesul,” though made out of wheat, millet and sorghum, exudes the fragrance of wild Asian pear blossoms. The liquor dates back to the Goryeo Dynasty. The tradition of munbaesul has been maintained by five generations of one household, the household that currently runs the Moonbaesool Brewery.
The 35-year old son of the brewery’s president, Moonbaesool manager Lee Seung-yong, represents the fifth generation. Lee watched his father learn the art of making Moonbaesool from his grandfather and started his formal training in his second year of high school.
“Usually bugs are (attracted) to apples or other sweet (things),” Lee described the fragrant charm of Moonbaesool. “Flies will come and sit on them. If we make our liquor, those bugs are fooled by it and come.”
There is a velvety sweetness to Moonbaesool followed by a fiery heat that signals the strength of the 40 proof liquor. For those who do not want to drink it straight, Lee suggests adding ice.
Despite the long line of tradition that has been handed down to him, Lee seems to be open to change, believes that Moonbaesool can be used in cocktails and has also developed his own yuzu-based rice liquor for a Hong Kong distributor.
The Westin Chosun Seoul Ninth Gate Kitchen cook Seo Kwi-saeng also seems to be open to a new world of possibilities for traditional alcoholic beverages. After all he played a key role in pairing traditional drinks with the dishes that team Chosun Challenge showcased at the Young Creative Korean Culinary Competition’s Team Haute Cuisine Challenge. His team placed third at the competition which was held as a part of the first annual Amazing Korean Table festival in late October.
Six teams of young Korean chefs drew from traditional Korean cuisine to create innovative meals for four Korean judges and former French Laundry chef de cuisine Corey Lee, three-Michelin star chef Pierre Gagnaire, two-Michelin star chef Massimo Bottura and La Colombe head chef Luke Dale-Roberts.
Chosun Challenge’s menu paired dishes like mung bean pancakes and pomegranate soy sauce with Jeonju Leegangju, a fragrant liquor that dates back as far as the mid-Joseon Dynasty. Aged with pear, ginger, cinnamon, honey and curcuma tuber, the traditional beverage was judged a good match for the relatively greasy pancakes.
Seo, who did Korean and Italian cuisine before moving on to French cuisine, was willing to take the potential of traditional drinks a step further.
When asked if he thought the beverages could be paired with other national cuisines, he answered: “I don’t think we need to restrict Korean traditional alcoholic beverages to Korean food. … They could go well with soft Japanese food, or French or Italian pasta.”
Details
Korea Traditional Wine Institute
For more information on classes or the institute itself visit www.ktwine.or.kr or call (02) 389-8611.
Moonbaesool Brewery Co.
For more information visit www.moonbaesool.co.kr or call (02) 338-0333.
Jeonju Leegangju
For more information visit www.leegangju.co.kr
Project for Reviving Traditional Korean Wines
Kook Soon Dang Brewery is also reviving extinct alcoholic beverages. The project is not affiliated with the Korea Traditional Wine Institute. To date they have revived approximately 11 varieties. For more information visit www.ksdb.co.kr
(oh_jean@heraldm.com)
By Jean Oh
News Clippings