Frenchman Brings Korean Cuisine to the World
Benjamin Joinau“The best of Korean cuisine is regional specialties,” says Benjamin Joinau, talking about doenjang jjigae or soybean paste stew he tasted recently in Hongcheon, Gangwon Province. The Frenchman has been traveling all over Korea since November last year, when he started his own show introducing Korean cuisine to English-speaking audiences in Korea and abroad, “Tasty Trail with Benjamin,” on Arirang TV.
The concept of the show — traveling far away from the stuffy studio — comes from Joinau’s belief that the core of Korean cuisine can be found in the provinces, not in Seoul. He made kimchi at the Haeinsa Temple in Hapcheon, South Gyeongsang Province, and had traditional bibimbap or rice with mixed vegetables in Jeonju, North Jeolla Province and temple food in Gangneung, Gangwon Province.
“I can’t forget this small restaurant in Gangwon Province. There were just a few side vegetable dishes, soybean paste stew and a bowl of rice. It was simple but so delicious. People think of fancy, fusion Korean dishes when hearing about Korean cuisine going global, but I believe the real stuff is in simple dishes you eat every day that are true to fundamentals,” he says.
During a doctorate program in anthropology at l’École des hautes études en sciences sociales (School for Advanced Studies in the Social Sciences), Joinau chose to teach in Korea in lieu of compulsory military service in 1994. He taught French and Latin for five years at École Française de Seoul and Hongik University.
It was Korean food that persuaded him to stay. He had become a fan as he made kimchi, soy sauce, soybean paste, and red pepper paste himself, and concocted dishes with vegetables from the mountains.
Yet initially he had a hard time getting used to it. “It was difficult for me to get used to the smell of sesame oil everywhere. I ate too much trying to get used to it for the first two or three months after I arrived in Korea. In the end, I got sick so I had to stop eating Korean food. But the problem was there weren’t many restaurants in Korea that served foreign food at the time. I had to start eating Korean food again in order not to starve. But from then on, I had no problem eating and digesting Korean food,” he recalls.
He now plans to publish a book about taking Korean cuisine to the world, comparing the history of Korean and Western cuisine and situating Korean food in a wider global context. He also wants to be more aggressive about the publishing house he set up in 1998, specializing on Korean culture.
“I set up a publisher with five French friends, and have published 12 translated books in French. We’re making guides and magazines about Korea. More Europeans take an interest in Korean culture, but there are not many readable books,” he says. In his fluent Korean, he adds, “It concerns me that books don’t sell well, but I do it all because of the emotional attachment I feel to Korea.”


