Andong rediscovered
JoongAng Daily
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| Imcheonggak Pavillion is Treasure No. 182. By Sohn Min-ho |
Andong, North Gyeongsang, was a center for Confucianism at one point in Korean history. At the core of Andong’s long and illustrious past are numerous distinguished scholars, aristocrats and noblemen from clans such as the Kwan, Kim and Jang clans of Andong as well as the Poongsan branch of the Yoo clan, the Jinbo Lees and the Gosung Lees.
While Andong was one of the key cities during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), a trip to the historic city reveals that the city gained political and cultural significance in the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). It was in the Goryeo period that Andong produced key political and cultural figures and in effect became the second capital city of the kingdom.
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| The seven-story brick pagoda known as Sinse-dong stands next to the Tapjongpa Pavillion. Standing at 16.8 meters high, the Sinse-dong pagoda is the tallest of its kind in Korea. |
Although the Hahoe Folk Village and Dosan Seowon, a Confucian academy, are well-known tourist sites, a recent trip to the region revealed that Andong has many more historic sights to offer.
In order to understand the history of Andong, one must go back in time to the late Silla Dynasty (57 B.C.-935), which was one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea along with Goguryeo and Baekje.
With Silla’s power on the wane, Wang Geon (877-943), later Taejo of Goryeo, and Kyeon Hwon (ca. 867-936) were struggling for power. The clash came to a peak in 930 at the famous Battle of Byungsan, in current day Andong. Wang Geon eventually won the battle, depriving Kyeon of his once-powerful forces.
Wang Geon’s victory in Byungsan had a lot to do with his allies in the region - Kim Sung-pyeong, Kwon Haeng and Jang Jung-pil. When Wang Geon assumed leadership of Goryeo, which succeeded Silla, he rewarded the three men by recognizing them as the heads of three Andong clans - Andong Kim, Andong Kwon and Andong Jang. It was the start of Andong’s place among the elite and was the first time the city gained recognition.
The Taesamyo Confucian Shrine, Gyeongbuk Memorial No. 15, in Andong was established in memory of the three men. The descendants of the three families take turns caring for the shrine and a live-in guide is available to show visitors around.
The shrine contains a storage space called Bomulgak that contains belts, spoons and other possessions of King Gongmin (1330-1374) of Goryeo.
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| The Taesamyo Confucian Shrine was established to pay homage to the founding fathers of the Kim, Kwon and Jang clans of Andong. |
The question of why relics that once belonged to King Gongmin are kept at Taesamyo can be traced back to 1361. After the invasion of Honggeunjeok, or the Red Turbans Army from China (1359-1361), Gongmin retreated from the capital city of Kaesong for 70 days. He spent 30 of those 70 days in Andong.
While it is known as a center for Confucianism, Andong also boasts several ancient Buddhist relics. Three of the country’s five brick pagodas are located in the Andong area. These pagodas are commonly found in China but are quite rare in Korea, where stone pagodas are more common. The stacked bricks created more space inside the pagoda for safekeeping of cremated remains and other important items. The cremated remains of the Buddha were said to have been kept in this manner. While Buddhist pagodas are usually placed on temple grounds in mountainous regions, it is unclear why so many brick pagodas exist in Andong.
The seven-story Sinse-dong pagoda, which is National Treasure No. 16, is particularly notable. At 16.8 meters (55 feet), it is the tallest of its kind in Korea.
The pagoda is located next to Imcheonggak Pavillion, Treasure No. 182. Imcheonggak was a sprawling 99-room hanok (traditional house) overlooking the Nakdong River. The locale is considered myeongdang (an ideal place) under the theory of divination based on topography known as poongsu.
Imcheonggak is one of many sprawling jongga (traditional homes of aristocrats) in the city, and was once the home of Seokju Lee Sang-ryong, the head of his clan at the time.
The house is smaller than many of the other jongga homes in the area, but no less majestic. It was built in 1519 in the mid-Joseon period and opened to public view in 2004. Today, it is a guesthouse open for visitors wishing to experience a piece of Korean history.
When the Japanese took over Korea’s national sovereignty and began its colonial rule on the peninsula, Seokju Lee Sang-ryong, the head of the Lee family at the time, buried his family’s ancestral tablet, took his savings and escaped to China. There, Lee became the first prime minister of the Provisional Government of the Republic of Korea. Nine of Lee’s descendants followed in his footsteps, actively participating in the fight for Korea’s sovereignty against Japanese colonial rule. The Japanese government, seeking revenge against Lee, laid a rail line on the property, blocking the view of the Nakdong River.
*For information, visit www.tourandong.com or call (054) 856-5701.
By Sohn Min-ho [jason@joongang.co.kr]









