UNSRC Korean Cultural Society

KOREA TIMES
12-17-2009 21:40

Many people brave the cold Tuesday to skate on the Gwanghwamun ice rink, which opened on Dec. 11. / Korea Times Photos by Shim Hyun-chul

By Shim Hyun-chul

The streets sparkle with seasonal decorations and lights, and the air rings with Christmas carols and Salvation Army bells.

Gwanghwamun Plaza’s silver-smooth ice skating rinks complete the holiday spirit. The biting weather can turn any pedestrian’s nose red like Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer, but children and adults alike seem to forget the cold while imitating Kim Yu-na’s spins on ice.

The public ice rink, which previously opened annually near Seoul City Hall, has moved to Gwanghwamun this year, with three rinks spanning a total of over 6,900 square meters between the statue of King Sejong and plaza’s flower bed.

The smallest of the three rinks, measuring 400 square meters, acts as a 25-meter-long sleigh course between the large (1,250 square meters) and medium-sized (600 square meters) rinks. The small rink is ideal for young children who cannot skate well.

The large rink is undergoing reconstruction after the plaza’s recent hosting of the Seoul Snow Jam competition and is slated to open on Dec. 21.

Visitors, particularly those who forget to bring cameras, can take photographs and send them as SMS messages at booths located around the rink.

The rinks will be open through Feb. 15, 2010. They are open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekdays and until 11 p.m. on weekends and holidays.

The 1,000 won admission includes helmet and skate rentals. Gloves are required in order to enter.

Booking reservations a week prior to your visit is recommended, and can be done online at www.seoulskate.or.kr, but tickets can also be purchased at the site. Skating lessons are also available. For more information, visit the Web site or call (02)3210-1267~8.

hyowlee@koreatimes.co.kr

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JoongAng Daily

	Gukbap (rice in soup) made from gongnamul (or bean sprouts) is said to be good for a morning hangover. By Kwon Hyuk-jae

The revelry that helps to ring in the year’s end can also lead to all-night drinking binges.

While all of that celebrating may bring you closer to your colleagues or help you forget your sorrows for a night, the consequences can come on the next morning in the form of a hangover, served possibly with a side of cold regret.

On days like those, what’s important is not how much you drank, but what you can do to alleviate your pain.

Each country seems to have its own hangover remedy. Japan has ramen and Russia has cucumber juice. In Sichuan, China, they eat carp soup, and in Guangdong Province in China, wonton mein is the ticket.

In South Korea, the answer is haejangguk, which refers to any soup eaten to relieve a hangover. There are many different variations on the soup throughout the country, and each province has its own version. The word haejang actually means to detoxify, and this healthy soup certainly gets the job done.

Of course, many people also have their own ideas for how best to re-energize after a long night of drinking.

For 49-year old Hanhwa Eagles baseball coach Han Dae-hwa, drinking four bottles of soju is a given. During his early coaching years, he used to drink a lot more, but would come to practice completely sober the next day. His secret hangover helper? Blowfish soup. “I’ve been eating it since I was in my 20s, so it’s very effective for me,” Han said.

Gu Bon-gil, the chef and vice-dean of the hotel department at the Korea Technical College, says the best way to banish a hangover is haejangguk made from daseulgi (black snail). The dish is made with fermented soybean paste, black snails and chard.

“The black snails give the broth a refreshing taste that wakes you up immediately,” Gu said. “It also helps settle an upset stomach.”

The tasty black snails are actually very nutritious and rich in amino acids, so the soup helps people recover from hangovers and even get over colds.

“Hangovers set in after the alcohol changes into acetaldehyde,” said Lim Myeong-jin, the director of Mi-green Oriental Medicine Clinic. “The detoxification process takes a while, so it’s actually more effective to eat haejangguk after you wake up rather than eating it right after you drink.”

He also recommended that people avoid drinking on an empty stomach, which could do some major damage to the stomach lining.

“It’s really important to eat something, whether it’s a snack or something high in sugar before you drink alcohol,” Lim said. “Start with the beverages that have the lowest alcohol content and maybe one drink that’s really strong. If you do drink excessively, it’s also important to take two to three days to rest and recover.”

Gyeongju Muk (jelly) haejangguk

	Seoul Seonjitguk

This hearty soup originated in Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang, where it is topped with buckwheat jelly or paste. Without the jelly, the dish is similar to the haejangguk from Jeonju, which is made with bean sprouts. As you step in to the Palujeong Haejangguk restaurant in Gyeongju, the smell of a variety of seaweeds and gulfweeds is fragrant. The soup is made with dried pollack, shrimp, anchovies and kelp, but what makes this dish special is the buckwheat paste. The combination of sesame oil and kimchi that is mixed into the paste gives it a slightly bitter yet light taste.

Palujeong Haejangguk: (054) 742-6515. Halmae Haejangguk: (054) 743-1984. All 4,000 won ($3.50).

Jeonju Gongnamul gukbap (rice in soup with bean sprouts)

	Gyeongju Muk Haejangguk

There are two kinds of gukbap with bean sprouts in Jeonju: the warm “Waengijip” variety and the piping hot “Sambaekjip” variety. Both of these use salted shrimp seasoning and are warm enough for any winter day. The broth for the Waengijip gukbap is made by boiling dried pollack, dried shrimp, anchovies, kelp and radishes. A poached egg, seaweed and three more spoonfuls of broth are mixed in, which helps protect the walls of the stomach. The Sambaekjip gukbap broth is made by boiling rice and bean sprouts, to which eggs, chili peppers, red pepper powder and powdered sesame mixed with salt are added.

Waengijip: (063) 287-6980, 5,000 won. Sambaekjip: (063) 284-2227, 4,500 won. Hyeondaeok: (063) 228-0020, 5,000 won.

Seoul Seonjitguk (ox-blood soup)

	Jeonju Gongnamul Gukbap

Seoul’s CheongJinok restaurant has a 72-year history and is famous for its Seonjitguk. They have relocated and are on the first floor of the Le Meilleur Building on Jongno 1-ga in central Seoul. Beef brisket and beef leg bone are boiled into a broth and mixed with dried kimchi, bean sprouts and ox blood. While this dish is usually served slightly warm, more people now ask for it to be served boiling hot.

Cheongjinok: (02) 735-1690. Cheongilok: (02) 733-5282. All 6,000 won.

Goesan Olgaengiguk (marsh snail soup)

Olgaengiguk is made with fermented soybean broth, red pepper paste and red pepper powder. Cooked olgaengi are coated with flour and eggs, and then put into the boiling mixture.

	Busan Bokguk

One restaurant that is known for its Olgaengiguk is Seoul Sikdang. What makes it so famous?

“The olgaengi are fresh and brought directly from the Namhan River,” said Park In-seok, the owner of Seoul Sikdang.

Goesan olgaengiguk is similar to the daseulgi haejangguk made in the Chungcheong provinces. The version made in Goesan County, North Chungcheong, is particularly well-known.

Seoul Sikdang: (043) 832-2135. Juchajang Sikdang: (043) 832-2673. All 5,000 won.

Busan Bokguk (blowfish soup)

While it takes time to clean and prepare the fish in this dish, the cooking method is pretty simple and straightforward. At Geumsubokguk restaurant in Busan, the broth for this soup is made with water, bean sprouts and radishes. After the blowfish is added to the boiling mixture, the dish is then topped off with dropwort, a leafy green herb.

Geumsubokgup: (051) 742-3600. Mipo Halmae Bokjip: (051) 741-4114. Halmaejip Wonjo Bokguk: (051) 747-7625. All priced around 8,000 won.

Hadong Jaecheopguk (corbicula soup)

This soup is made with simple ingredients that include corbicula, salt and chives. Corbicula helps with overcoming fatigue and improving vision, and it is also improves organ function and cleanses the stomach.

Corbicula cannot survive in water that is not clean, so the clean water near the Seomjin River in Hadong County, South Gyeongsang, is ideal for corbicula growth, and has made the area famous for this its Jaecheopguk.

“The ingredients are simple and easy to cook with and salt is the only seasoning that’s used,” said Ye Gui-sun, the owner of Yeoyeo Sikdang. “That may leave a slight hint of fishiness, but that’s what makes this soup what it is.”

Yeoyeo Sikdang: (055) 884-0080. Hadong Halmae Jaecheop Sikdang: (055) 884-1034. All for 7,000 won.

By Lee Sang-eun [jbiz91@joongang.co.kr]

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JoongAng Daily

	People watch the sunrise on Haeundae Beach in Busan on Jan. 1, 2009. By Song Bong-geun

The sunset and sunrise hold a special place in the hearts of many people across the world, particularly Koreans.

To some, looking at the sun sink at dusk provides a way to come to terms with the past and an opportunity for closure. To others, watching it slowly peek up over the horizon at dawn can spur feelings of hope and courage.

If you’re not so moved, however, it’s hard to argue against the notion that the sunset and sunrise are just plain pretty to look at.

Each year, many Koreans travel to coastal areas of the country specifically to see the sunset or the sunrise, or even both. Parents bundle up their children and pack up their cars for weekend trips, while couples book rooms in romantic seaside hotels.

By now, accommodations in those regions, especially on the east coast, are already filling up. On New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day, the areas will be packed with crowds of revelers who arrive on trains and buses and in cars to see the sun set on one year and rise on another. Some of those who cannot find accommodations choose to sleep in their vehicles or in jjimjilbang, or Korean saunas.

To capitalize on this trend, regional governments are preparing sunset and sunrise festivals, hoping to enhance the experience for visitors. Sure, no one likes traffic jams and overpriced - not to mention overcrowded - hotels. But many feel it’s worth it just to catch a glimpse of the sunrise and sunset. For those who can’t afford the trek to the coasts or simply don’t have enough time, there are plenty of mountains, hills and even beaches near the metro area to catch the views. Following are some of the best places to do so this winter.

By Limb Jae-un [jbiz91@joongang.co.kr]

Maryangpo

	A sign welcoming guests to Maryangpo

While many people travel to Korea’s east coast to see the sunrise, this small harbor town in Seocheon County, South Chungcheong, on the west coast is famous for offering a similar opportunity - plus a chance to see the sunset on the same day, as it is located on a swath of land that protrudes south into the sea.

The sunrise here, however, can only be seen for 60 days prior to and after Dec. 22. An endless stream of tourists trickle into the quiet harbor at the end of each year for just this reason.

On Dec. 31 and Jan. 1, Seocheon County holds an annual sunset and sunrise festival. Participants can gather together to watch the rising sun to the sound of drums, which organizers say carries a message of love, forgiveness and reconciliation. Another attraction in Maryangpo is the 500-year-old camellia forest. When the camellia flowers are in full bloom in mid-April, the forest turns into a sea of red. Following stone stairs into the forest, you’ll see a pavilion, called Dongbaekjeong, where the Yellow Sea unfolds in front of you.
Gazing out at the sea here can be an amazing experience, and many visitors compare it to looking at a landscape painting. Aside from the small picturesque islands and the forest, the colors and light at sunrise and sunset are some of the most vibrant and breathtaking on the west coast.

Additionally, if you head here for Lunar New Year’s Day and the third day of the Lunar New Year in mid-February, there will be ceremonies focused around praying for an abundant fish harvest.

Take a train at Yongsan Station (Janghang line) to Seocheon (3 hours and 20 minutes). For drivers, take the West Coast Highway, pass by Pyeongtaek, Asan, Gwangcheon and Daecheon until you hit Seocheon.

Chuam Beach

With its fantastic rocks and jade-colored water, Chuam Beach draws visitors from far and wide for the sunrise on New Year’s Day.

	The sunrise from Chuam Beach

The beach, located near Donghae, Gangwon Province, is so beautiful that national television broadcast stations show shots of it against the backdrop of the Korean national anthem every day when they go off the air after midnight and just before they go on again every morning. The color of the rocks changes as the sun slowly rises above the sea, illuminating the landscape and leaving a lasting impression on visitors.

After sunrise, visitors can walk around the spacious white beach, which is shaped like a crescent moon. The Haeamjeong pavilion is a great place to observe the sea. Surrounded by rocks, the pavilion was built to ensure that it creates harmony with the surrounding environment.
Its history dates back to 1361, when a government official named Sim Dong-ro of the Goryeo Dynasty (918 -1392) became fed up with politics. He returned to his hometown and later built the pavilion to capture the peace and tranquility of the area. Other attractions and sites include Mount Duta, Mureung Valley, Cheongok Cave and Mangsang Beach. For details, call (033) 532-2801 or go to www.dhtour.go.kr.

Take the Yeongdong Highway to the Donghae Interchange, follow the signs to Donghae, then turn left at the three-way crossing and continue on the road until you get to Chuam Beach in Bukpyeong-dong.

Hyangilam Temple

Hyangilam Temple in Yeosu, South Jeolla is considered one of the best spots for watching the sunset - at least that’s what the locals say. This is also one of the most popular temples among Buddhists for praying.

	The view from Hyangilam Temple [JoongAng Ilbo]

The temple is located on top of a cliff on the coast that faces south. Its name derives from a Korean word that means “facing the sun.” The temple is surrounded by beautiful scenery, and viewing the sunset with the sound of temple bells ringing in the background is quite special. Right below the steep cliff lies the vast blue sea, further enhancing the allure of the place. While the views are grand, the temple itself is rather small and humble.

Just getting there is half the fun, as the path leading to the temple is beautiful. Walking up the high-sloped trail, visitors will see two golden turtles at the entrance to the stairs leading to the temple. Pass through the stone gate between two large rocks and you arrive at the temple.

While watching the sunrise early in the morning at the main building of the temple, which is situated 150 meters (492 feet) above sea level, visitors will see a dab of red above the water spread along the horizon.

The temple then shines as it reflects the morning sunlight, which monks say highlights their unchanging belief in Buddha’s teachings. This is also a popular place throughout the year with mothers who come to pray for their children taking the college entrance exam.

The temple holds an annual festival on Dec. 31 and Jan. 1 to celebrate the New Year holiday, featuring various events including a parade and a shamanistic performance. The festivities kick off at 5 p.m. on Dec. 31, with the sunset expected to begin at 5:28 p.m. Monks will also hold a bell-ringing event as the clock nears midnight.

The sunrise events and performances are scheduled to begin at 6 a.m. on Jan. 1, with the sunrise expected to start at 7:36 a.m. For details, call (061) 690-2042 or visit www.yeosutravel.net.

Trains to Yeosu, South Jeolla, depart from Yongsan Station. For those who prefer to drive, take the Gyeongbu (Seoul-Busan) Highway to the Cheonan-Nonsan Highway, follow that until the Honam (Jeolla Provinces) Highway, then take the Suncheon Interchange to the 17th National Highway and continue until you hit Yeosu.

Festivals and events a bit closer to home

If you’re looking for somewhere closer to home, there are several areas in and around Seoul that provide opportunities to see the sunrise and sunset such as Mount Acha in Gwangjin District, Mount Namsan in Jung District, Sky Park in Mapo District and Mount Bukhan in Gangbuk District. For those in Busan, Haeundae Beach is a great spot as well.

Every year, more than 40,000 people come to Mount Acha to welcome the New Year at a sunrise festival that takes place in the pavilion on top of the mountain. To reach Mount Acha, go to Gwangnaru Station on line No. 5, exit 2. For more information, call the Gwangjin District Office at (02) 450-7574. A similar festival is scheduled at Sidan Peak on Mount Bukhan at 6:40 a.m. Go to Suyu Station on line No. 4, exit 1, and transfer to bus No. 1.

Other areas are hosting sunset and sunrise events on Dec. 31 and Jan. 1, including Homigot Cape in Pohang, North Gyeongsang Province; Donghae, on the east coast; and Ganjeolgot, Ulsan. For information on Homigot Cape, call (054) 270-2114 or visit http://sunrise.ipohang.org. For Ganjeolgot, call (052) 229-7000 or visit http://ganjeolgot.org.

For those living in and around Busan, the city has scheduled festivals at Haeundae and Dadaepo beaches and at Yongdusan Park. For details, call (051) 888-3392 or visit www.festival.busan.kr.

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