Say no to samgyeopsal, and yes to black pork
JoongAng Daily
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| Black pork from Gimcheon, North Gyeongsang, is known for its exceptional flavor and texture. Provided by Korea Tourism Organization |
In Gimcheon, North Gyeongsang, barbecue is not chicken, burgers, hot dogs or even ribs. Barbecue is pork, from black pigs, and it is often grilled on a briquette fire, while it crisps and crackles most pleasingly in the skillet right in front of your eyes.
If that sentence makes your mouth water, well, you’d better hope that you can catch the next thing moving to the city of Gimcheon, where black pork, or heuk dwaegi, is plentiful and the barbecue is always ready to go.
These days, there are not many places in Korea where black pigs are raised, but before the 1950s the animals were raised in cities around the country and it was customary to serve black pork to guests.
Black pigs are native to Korea and are known to have first been raised in northern China during the Goguryeo Dynasty (37 B.C.-668).
The pigs began disappearing in the late 1950s with the influx of foreigners into Korea. The new crop of foreign visitors brought with them white Yorkshire pigs, which were three times larger than their darker cousins and soon became the pig of choice for a country more focused on volume than on tradition. Farmers nationwide rushed to start raising the Yorkshire pigs and black pigs grew scarce.
Gimcheon, however, fought hard to hold on to its black pigs. The city was originally famous as a receiving and distribution center for the animals.
Gimcheon black pigs are renowned for their high quality, because they drink clean underground water rich in iron and breathe fresh country air all year round. They are small in size, but there’s a gulf between the taste of the pigs produced here and those raised elsewhere. It is said that even if newborn pigs from other cities are transported to and raised in Gimcheon, they still have a different taste from those born and raised in the area.
Gimcheon residents have launched a project to support black pig farmers and prevent the black pigs from becoming endangered, and more than 10 farms in the city now raise 2,000 to 3,000 black pigs each. In addition, the city has as many as 12 black pig restaurants.
At the restaurants, the thick juicy pork is often roasted on the table as you eat. The pork contains proteins, unsaturated fatty acids and is low in trans fat and calories. Compare that to the scrappy slices of samgyeopsal, pork that is similar in appearance to thick slices of bacon, one customarily encounters. Black pork is also chewier and more textured than other kinds of pork.
Give it a try the next time you’re in Gimcheon. If you live in Seoul, you’ll have to make the 240-kilometer (149-mile) drive to get it, but once you do, you’re likely to join the thousands of visitors who return to the city every year for just one more taste.
*For more information, visit www.visitkorea.or.kr. Information provided by Korea Tourism Organization
By Yim Seung-hye Contributing writer [estyle@joongang.co.kr]

Of four bone fragments found in the Tomb of King Muryeong, three are round with a diameter of 3 to 5 cm while another 20 cm-long bone is cut in two pieces. /Courtesy of the Gongju National Museum

