Tasty Delicacies Just for the Fall Season
Korea Times
10-15-2009 17:04
 Roasted “jeoneo,” or hickory shad, is one of the most popular dishes during the autumn season. / Korea Times Photos by Shim Hyun-chul |
By Han Sang-hee
Staff Reporter
The change of season brings among many things changes in food. Korea has various seasonal recipes that are eaten depending on the change of weather, and the three representative dishes most popular in autumn are hickory shad, or “jeoneo” in Korean, blue crabs and prawns. The Korea Times took a visit to the Oido Fish Market in Oido, or Oi Island, Gyeonggi Province, to see how fresh and tasty they were amid the chilly winds and autumnal foliage.
Jeoneo
Jeoneo is a small fish that can be found in various regions from Incheon to Seocheon, South Chungcheong Province. There are several proverbs in Korean that show how much Koreans enjoy dishes made from the fish, such as “the scent of roasted jeoneo can bring back the daughter-in-law who ran away.”
Kim Myung-ja from Geomok Seafood has been selling seafood, including crabs, shrimps and various clams, for the last 40 years, and said the fall season is without a doubt the best time for jeoneo.
“They are fatty and also very chewy. They get better and better as time passes. People start buying and eating jeoneo as soon as the weather gets chilly, but they taste better in the late fall, near the end of November,” she said.
Jeoneo lay eggs from March to June and after they give birth to the eggs, they start to eat for the winter, becoming fat and nutritious by the fall.
“When you come to the market to buy jeoneo, a good way to tell if they are not from farms and directly from the sea is their size and condition. Those from the sea are different in size ― some are small, some are big ― and they don’t move very fast inside the tanks. Jeoneo have frisky tempers and so you can’t keep them in a tank for a long time. They tend to die after the day they are caught and brought to a tank,” Kim said.
This is why the fish are one of the first to be put on auction at markets.
The best ways to enjoy them are roasted or as sashimi.
Because jeoneo have very thin bones, both the sashimi and roasted dishes are enjoyed without removing them. For those who don’t want to chew on the bones, ask the chef to remove them from the sashimi.
Jeoneo are rich in unsaturated fatty acids, such as DHA and EPA, making them effective against geriatric diseases. Thanks to the edible bones, they are also rich in calcium, vitamins and minerals. One kilogram costs approximately 20,000 won at the Oido Market.
Blue Crab
Blue crabs are also a popular treat during autumn, as they carry eggs and eat heavily for the winter. Oido is a good choice for those who live near the city, but Yeonpyeong Island, Incheon, is the most famous place for crabs during this season.
This year, the crab fishermen saw a boost in catches, as crabs were also caught in other areas near Incheon, including Daecheong Island and Baekryeong Island, and so visitors were able to buy them for a more reasonable price.
Blue crabs are popular among Koreans as they are easy to cook and tasty. The best way to eat fresh blue crabs is to steam them, while another is to make them into a special dish called “gejang.” Gejang is basically salted and marinated crab. The blue crabs are cleansed and put into either soy sauce or red pepper paste sauce, then preserved for a couple of days and served with a bowl of steamed white rice.
According to Pyo Heung-suk, the co-owner of seafood restaurant Abangri located right next to the market, it is important to steam them upside down.
“You don’t want the crabs to explode in the heat, so it is important to position them upside down on their hard backs,” she said, adding that it takes about 15 to 20 minutes to fully steam them.
One favorite way Koreans enjoy eating blue crabs is “shell bibimbap.” Remove the hard shell of the crab from its body after it’s steamed, and put a small proportion of rice into it and mix it with eggs and crab meat. Put a small drop of sesame oil, and now you have what is called a “rice thief,” a side dish that steals the rice right off your bowl in no time.
During this season, the female crabs have a lot to offer, from their soft meat to eggs. The easiest way to distinguish male and female crabs is by checking their belly. If their belly has a round shape, it’s a female, while the pointed ones are the males.
Blue crabs are rich in protein, which helps against obesity and geriatric diseases. They are also good for heart disease, high blood pressure and liver trouble, and also a great seafood for children who need calcium for strong bones.
Prawn
Along with jeoneo and blue crabs, prawns are also a favorite among locals during the fall.
According to Kim, the cost of prawns is very different depending on where you buy them. The smartest choice is at markets, as restaurants tend to be a bit more expensive.
Fresh prawns taste best when they are roasted with rock or sea salt. Place silver paper on a heated grill and pour a handful of salt on it before setting the prawns down and covering them with a lid until they turn red.
“When the prawns start to turn red, open the lid and separate the body and head of the prawns with scissors. Take out the bodies when they are red, and roast the heads until they turn brown and crisp. It may feel weird, but they taste like shrimp chips!,” Pyo said, adding that it’s healthier to eat the shells too.
Prawns cost 25,000 won for one kilogram.
To get to Oido, take subway line 4 and get off at Oido Station. (Oido was originally an island but was connected to the mainland during Japanese colonial rule.) Take a taxi or the 30-2 bus to the Oido Fish Market. There are more than 400 shops that offer seafood at wholesale prices, which are relatively lower than eating at restaurants. Most of the shops work with a certain restaurant, so you can buy the seafood and move to the designated restaurant to eat it. In addition to the fresh seafood bought at the market, you also have to pay the restaurant to make the dishes.
For more information about the Oido Fish Market, call (031) 499-3770 (Korean).
