Dance all night in Hongdae
Korea Herald
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This is the 40th in a series of articles highlighting tourism spots in Seoul. The guide for planning weekend trips in the capital city will help readers rediscover Seoul. - Ed.
By Annabelle Lee
“Hongdae” is simply the shortened form of Hongik University. Nevertheless, the name now refers to the area around Hongik University. It is known as a special cultural area where young indie bands play experimental music, and is the cultural cradle of underground clubs.
These clubs comprise a substantial proportion of the number of clubs nationwide. As a result, the front side of Hongdae is synonymous with “indie,” “non-mainstream,” and “underground.” That’s why music fans who are tired of the same old commercial music flock to Hongdae in search of unique and talented indie bands.
21 Clubs for 15,000 Won
Hongdae’s clubs are as various as they are numerous. There are clubs with live bands and dance clubs with DJs, which differ according to genre. Among these, M2 is famous for electronica, NB for hip-hop, and JOKER RED for techno. Evans and Water Cock specialize in Jazz. Of course, there are also clubs that cover several genres.
The best way to sample the Hongdae club culture is by attending Club Day. It is a magical music world that Hongdae clubs present from 8 p.m. to 6 a.m. on Friday of the last week of every month. For 15,000 won you get a bracelet and a drink ticket. With this bracelet, you can visit 21 participating clubs all night.
On other days, each club attracts clubbers with its own unique music and special events. When Club Day comes, almost all clubs involved prepare a special program. So, you have to check the hourly program, which also has the locations of all the clubs involved, and plan where to go in advance.
Of course, you can get the program at the door. However, we recommend you print it out through the club culture association homepage (http://www.clubculture.or.kr) or Hongdae Club Day (http://www.theclubday.co.kr) and plan your night in advance. You can wear anything you like, but you might want to avoid slippers or mules for the purpose of safety - they can easily come off in the excitement. Moderate exposure warms up the mood, but real Hongdae clubbers don’t expose themselves excessively or drink heavily. Also, liquor from outside sources, such as convenience stores, is not allowed in the clubs.
The best way to enjoy Club Day is to begin with the participating live band clubs starting from 8 o’clock. The performances usually last until midnight or 1 a.m. Afterward, you can move to the dance clubs where DJs present music until 6 a.m.
Evolution from studios to cafes, galleries, and clubs
What, then, is the reason why so many clubs are gathered in Hongdae? The Art school of Hongdae plays a big role. Hongdae is famous as the best and biggest art school in the country. The students, full of spirit and personality, attended the school and the surrounding area was a place where they gathered and worked. Those students, exploring novel and unique ideas, engaged in new, experimental activities. Art and music overflowed from their influence, enlarging the area to include cafes, galleries, and clubs.
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Some examples, in the late 1980s, were the electric cafe, Electric, run by Hongdae Art school professor, Ahn Sang-su, in the form of a studio, OLO-OLO, run by Choi Jung-hwa, an installation artist, in front of Ewha Womans University, and Plastic Surgeon, run by the younger brother of author E-bul, at Sinchon. These formed the center of Seoul’s underground culture. Visitors increased, music was played, people danced naturally to the music, and occasional one-off performances were held. When the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games opened up a worldwide cultural exchange, it began dealing with even more diverse genres.
Hongdae has turned into a cultural region of its own. Clubs with different music and unique atmospheres have grown up and established new cultural icons. The Hongdae playground attracts people through a flea market on Saturdays, and a “hope market” on Sundays. Along with street art exhibitions every year, wall pictures on every corner and alleyway add to the ambience.
100th Club Day
Club Day has now entered its 8th year, with the 100th meeting coming on Aug. 28. When Club Day started, 1,000 people attended. Nowadays, there is an average of 10,000 attendees and 15,000 are expected for the 100th Club Day. The occasion will be marked in the most Korean way, with a pig head, makgeolli, and siru rice cakes in front of the Hongdae Imagination Square. A bazaar with the belongings of 100 artists, all graduates of Hongdae, will be held.
Hongdae clubs don’t have any barriers to age, gender, or nationality. You need only to be ready to enjoy the music with an open mind. The bigger, more well-known clubs are good, but visit the small clubs, too. Each of them has its own charm and character.
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Miss Myvanwy Birds is from Ireland. She has become a Hongdae club fan since she came to Korea two years ago. She plays the harp. Hongdae music and her classical music seem to be unrelated. However, there is a saying that all music is connected in one way or another. She says she gets musical inspiration and community from Hongdae, where a diversity of music such as Jazz, hip hop, and others are living. Her favorite clubs are 500 and Agitpunkt. She also enjoys Club Day, and visits at least 5 6 clubs on nights it is held.
Picture gallery Cafe Dream
On the way to a Hongdae alley (also home to the cafe from the drama “Coffee Prince”) is Cafe Dream. It has a neat and simply designed interior. As a picture gallery cafe, picture related books are on the shelves, and a picture exhibition by Mr. Gyum Lee to support Bolivian children is held. Under the pictures are comments from visitors and they are sold on the spot. Of course, cafe drinks are available. For inquiries, call 02 338 7077, or visit www.kkoomm.com.
Makgeolli specialty house, Chin Chin
Looking away from the entrance of Hongdae, there is a makgeolli house, Chin Chin, on your right hand side. It’s interior is similar to that of a fine wine bar, but it sells a Korean traditional rice wine, makgeolli. There are also variations, offering even makgeolli sherbet, makgeolli ice cream, and makgeolli espresso. For inquiry, call 02 334 1476.
2009.08.21