Gwanghwamun Square
Korea Herald
This is the 39th in a series of articles highlighting tourism spots in Seoul. The guide for planning weekend trips in the capital city will help readers rediscover Seoul. - Ed.
By Annabelle Lee
The new Gwanghwamun Square opened in the heart of Seoul featuring a variety of interesting exhibits and charming fountains, in a place that was once crammed with bumper-to-bumper traffic.
History
Lee Seong-gye - later to become King Taejo - founded a country named Joseon on the peninsula in 1392. He had searched around for a site for a new capital.
After transferring the capital to Hanyang in 1394, King Taejo reported to the god of mountains and rivers that he would build a new palace and royal shrine. Construction of Gyeongbok Palace was completed in September 1395. The name of the palace literally means “palace with a great blessing from heaven.”
On Dec. 28, King Taejo moved into the palace, which was comprised of over 390 rooms, from which he ruled a new country that thrived for six centuries.
The southern gate of Gyeongbok Palace was called Sajeongmun, but was renamed Gwanghwamun, meaning “the King’s virtuous light shines on the nation.” The two-storied Gwanghwamun had three entrances. The central arch was for the King, and the two on either side were for his subjects. In front of Gwanghwamun stood two statues of Haechi - a lion-like creature that appears in Korean myths as a guardian against fire and disasters. In a picture of Jujak a guardian to protect the southern region was painted on the ceiling.
Gwanghawmun had government offices on both sides of the road to the south. The street was called “Yukjo Geori,” the street of six ministries. On the right side stood Yejo (the Ministry of Rites), Samgunbu (Three Armies Command), Jungchubu (the Office of Ministers-without-Portfolio), Saheonbu (the Office of Inspector-General), Byeongjo (the Ministry of Military Affairs), Hyeongjo (the Ministry of Punishments), and Gongjo (the Ministry of Public Works).
On the left were Uijeongbu (the State Council), Hanseongbu (the Ministry of the Capital City), Hojo (the Ministry of Taxation) and Giroso (the Club of Elders). The street was as important as the inside of the Gyeongbokgung since it was a bustling place of information exchange.
Celebration of reopening
On Aug. 1, 2009, the refurbished Gwanghwamun Square was opened.
Gwanghwamun Square had lost its original structure over time. The original gate was burnt during the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. Although it was rebuilt in 1864 by Heungseon Daewongun, it lost its appearance once again during the Japanese colonial rule (1910-1945). The Gwanghwamun area then lost its exclusive image and became known simply as the place with the worst traffic congestion in Korea.
To resurrect the site’s spirit and beauty, Gwanghwamun Square has now been reborn as a place for citizens to relax.
Over 44.5 billion won ($37 million) was spent in refurbishing the Gwanghwamun Square - which is 34 meters wide and 557 meters long, stretching from Gwanghwamun through the Sejongno intersection to Cheonggye Square. The facelift took 16 months. On ordinary days, the square is surrounded by a 10-lane thoroughfare but can be changed into a big public plaza that can accommodate up to 70,000 people on special occasions.
When arriving at Gwanghwamun Square, a huge “flower carpet” will be the first thing to catch your eyes. This flower bed, which is 17.5 meters wide and 165 meters long, was planted with 224,537 flowers. The number matches the number of days between Oct. 28 1394, when the capital of the Joseon Dynasty was transferred to Seoul, and the day the square opened. The flowers are planted in a Dancheong pattern, traditionally used in decorative painting, and create a beautiful harmony with Gyeongbokgung in the background. The haechi statues at both ends of the flower carpet are also worth a look.
Towards the southern end of the flower carpet, a new statue of King Sejong will be unveiled on Oct. 9, Hangeul Day. There will be an exhibition hall set up in the passage underneath the statue to enable visitors to take a closer look at the life and achievements of King Sejong, who led the invention of Hangeul, the Korean alphabet.
Going along the square
Pass through the miniature street that recreates the old Yukjo Geori in the middle of the square and you will see an exhibition hall named Haechi Madang.
Haechi, the symbolic icon of Seoul, are guardians against fire. It was first installed in front of Gwanghwamun when Gyeongbokgung was constructed, in order to prevent the negative spirit of fire coming from Mount Gwanak.
At the hall, a number of models and pictures of Haechi are on display. Haechi pictures are also featured in stained glass on the ceiling, while Arisu Fountain in the center provides fresh water for thirsty visitors. The stratigraphic layers of the site where Yukjo Geori once stood - excavated during the construction - are also on display.
An exhibition on “Plazas and Squares of Europe” is currently being held in the main exhibition hall, which also acts as an underground relaxation area with various communal facilities. On the way out of Haechi Madang, “Haechi Board,” a wide state-of-the-art screen is set on the right side. The high tech sound system can be used for various events. The screen can also be used upon reservation to announce your love to the world.
On each eastern and western side of the square are “Waterways of History.” Each waterway is two centimeters deep, one meter wide and 365 meters long.
On the east side, the 617-stone tiles along the bottom of the waterway are engraved with key historical events that have occurred since 1392, from the establishment of the Joseon Dynasty right up to the inaugural ceremony of the new Gwanghwamun Square. The stone floors of the western waterway, however, are left blank, ready for future events.
The two waterways meet at the end point of the square near the Sejongno crossroads. The integrated waterway passes through a reinforced glass tunnel paved along the road to join Cheonggyecheon stream.
The most popular spot with children would probably be the “Fountain 12.23″ near the statue of Admiral Yi Sun-shin, one of the country’s most revered figures. In front of the statue, 364 water jets are installed in recognition of the naval battles that Yi successfully led against foreign invaders. LED lighting illuminates the fountains in front of the statue. Number 12 originates from the 12 warships that successfully fought against 133 invading vessels, and the number 23 refers to Yi’s perfect record of 23 wins out of 23 battles.
“The plaza will become a landmark of Korea that represents national identity like the Champs-Elysees in Paris, the National Mall in Washington, and Tiananmen Square in Beijing,” Seoul Mayor Oh Se-hoon said on the opening day.
The plaza, which once used to be dominated by cars, has indeed been reborn to become a space for leisure and cultural activities.
The square reunites Cheonggyecheon and Gyeongbokgung and enjoys a clear view of Mount Bukak, successfully uniting culture and long history of Korea.
Travelers who almost missed the opening
Interview
Two young Canadian men were among the crowds who rushed out to see the capital’s newest attraction. They were veteran travelers who arrived here two weeks ago. Starting with Seoul, they had already traveled around the east coast, Gyeongju, Daejeon, Cheongju and Busan.
Jadan Strilchule, 25, and Derek Padlersky, 28, had seen a lot of Korean culture and tried bibimbap, samgyeopsal, kimchi jjigae and kalguksu.
Their last destination in Korea was Gwanghwamun Square, an off-the-cuff plan because their departure flight schedule had been delayed.
They said they would have regretted missing the chance to see the square, giving it the thumbs up, especially praising the square’s proximity to Gyeongbokgung, City Hall, Cheonggyecheon, and various museums and theaters.
Tips on eateries
There are three types of eateries available around the Gwanghwamun Square.
First, you can use the alleys behind the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts. A myriad of mom-and-pop kitchens such as Sapporo Udon (02-738-5663) sell bibimbap, pizza, bindaetteok, kimchi jjigae, and udon.
You can also choose to stay closer to the Gwanghwamun Square by eating at restaurants lined up along the main road. Seommaeulbatjip (02-723-5922) offers a good view of the square as well as the people, and Italian restaurant Jacob (02-720-6011) located on the second floor commands a better view from above.
You may want to opt for a quick take-out. There is a great choice of take-out coffee shops like Starbucks (02-758-8036) and fast-food options such as Dunkin Donuts (02-723-5933) and KFC (02-738-9870). Buy some food here and sit on a bench to fully enjoy the outdoors.
Tips on eateries
Haechi, the symbolic icon of Seoul, is a legendary animal representing “justice and integrity” that distinguishes good from evil, providing “safety” from disaster, and bringing in “blessings and luck.” This mythical creature has a horn on its head, a bell on its neck, scales all over its body, and wing-like feathers under its arms so that it can fly. It lives by water in summer, and in pine forests in winter. It also takes residence in Gwanghwamun and Gyeongbokgung.
2009.08.14