UNSRC Korean Cultural Society

Korea Herald

This is the 41st in a series of articles highlighting tourism spots in Seoul. The guide for planning weekend trips in the capital city will help readers rediscover Seoul. - Ed.

In June 2009, the Joseon Royal Tombs were registered as a UNESCO world heritage site. For Korea, this is the ninth addition to the world heritage list.

There are 42 Joseon Royal Tombs. Forty of those tombs are in South Korea, of which eight are in Seoul. The royal tombs are those that were built following the death and state funerals of kings and queens.

State funerals in modern times are held when former presidents or others who have been admired by the people for their great achievements pass away. Most recently was on Aug. 23, when late former President Kim Dae-jung passed away. It was the second state funeral to be held since the establishment of the Republic of Korea.

During the Joseon Dynasty (1392~1910), however, state funerals were held when kings and queens passed away.

While a modern state funeral takes at least nine days, it took 3-5 months during the Joseon Dynasty. Since they believed odd numbers were more prestigious, the funeral was held for an odd number of months, such as for three months or five months.

There was also a ceremony called “a spirit on the roof” when a person died, which is hardly seen nowadays. When a king died, his eunuch climbed up on the roof of the palace and shouted three times while waving the king’s robe, “High majesty, please come back!” If the spirit didn’t come back, the king was considered dead and they could proceed with the funeral.

The funeral process during the Joseon Dynasty was very complicated. The department of the administration (Uijeongbu) announced the state funeral. With the guidance of the first vice-premier, three government offices were established: Binjeondogam made a mortuary, cleaned the corpse and wrapped it in a shroud; Gukjangdogam took charge of the proceedings; and Sanneungdogam built the tomb and a house for the sacrificial rites.

Seonjeongneung is located in the middle of Seoul, surrounded by high-rise buildings and apartments. At the entrance, the red-spiked gate grabs the first sight. It is the gate that marks the holy area, propped up by two red pillars on either side, each topped with spikes and engraved with Taegeuk (traditional symbol) marks. The two-tiered pathways from the red-spiked gate to the T-shaped shrine used for royal tomb rites are covered with rough stones. The higher tier was for the gods, and the lower stage for the kings — no one else was allowed to use these pathways, and a sideway was paved for ordinary people to be able to approach the tomb.

In front of Joseon Royal Tombs, there are usually two to four structures. The structure in front of the tomb is called Jeongjagak, named after its shape that resembles the Chinese character “Jung” (丁). This is where the sacrificial rites were performed. One was to approach the structure from the east side, and leave on the west. To the east of the shrine stands a tombstone inscribed with the king’s achievements, along with another monument to protect it.

Seolleung has a similar structure. King Seongjong (1457-1494), who was one of the great kings of the Joseon Dynasty, is laid under here. He completed the early period of civilization, which led to the heyday of Joseon. He had 12 wives, and fathered 16 princes and 13 princesses. The queen who bore his first son was deposed, causing political turmoil later on. Yeonsangun, who succeeded King Seongjong, was removed from the throne after 10 years in power. King Jungjong (1488-1544) was the successor, whose tomb is called Jeongneung, situated next to Seolleung. The tomb of his mother, Queen Jeonghyeon, is between the tombs of the kings Seongjong and Jungjong. The tombs of King Seongjong and Queen Jeonghyeon are known together as Seolleung.

Seonjeongneung now plays the role of a relaxation area for people living in the maze of buildings in the city. The entrance fee is 1,000 won, and a monthly pass (10,000 won) is available so that neighbors can visit as often as they want. Lunchtime pass is also available costing 3,000 won and gets you in a total of 10 times between noon and 1 p.m.

The Joseon Royal Tombs were all built in similar style, but they differ from each other according to their geographical features. At the tomb of King Jungjong, the graves of the king and queen are in completely separate locations. Others, like Seolleung, have the two placed near each other at the foot of the mountain. Heolleung is the name for the tombs of the king and the queen that are lined next to each other like twin tombs on a hill. Illeung is a combined tomb where the king and the queen lay together under one structure. Gyeongneung, the tomb of the 24th king, Heonjong, has the king, queen, and the king’s second wife placed together.

In Naegok-dong, Seocho-gu of Seoul, from the southern side of Seonjeongneung, there are Heonneung of King Taejong (the third king of Joseon) and Illeung of King Sunjo, the 23rd king.

Together, they are called Heonilleung. The area is also considered as a historic place for its forest of alder trees.

King Taejong was the 5th son of King Taejo, the founder of Joseon. He was the partner to his father in building the country after defeating the opponents. However, to gain the throne, he killed his stepbrothers and even executed his brothers-in-law to restrain the power of his wife’s family.

A typical royal tomb is covered with grass with 12 stones around it like a folding screen to protect it. The stone fence around the tomb prohibits the approach by animals or people. Around the tomb are four sculptures of sheep and four tigers, whose features are more cute than scary. Beyond the sheep and tigers is a fence. In front of the tomb is a wide rock, which is put there so that spirits can come and rest. A bogeyman is carved on the supporting stone to drive away the evil spirits. There is also a stone lantern. This is not for light, but to pray that the royal tomb will be maintained and protected for a long time and to receive blessings from the tomb.

A literary man statue (Muninseok) and a warrior statue (Muinseok) also stand guarding the tomb. The Muninsuk’s features are soft and comfortable, while the Muinsuk’s features are intimidating and dignified. They are each accompanied by stone horses. Usually tombs have one pair of Muninseok and one pair of Muinseok, with two pairs of stone sheep and stone tigers, but Heolleung has four of each statue.

It was difficult to approach the tomb area during the Joseon Dynasty. Nowadays cities are developed and buildings and residential areas stand closely to the entrances to the tombs.

Recently more buildings have been erected along the hills around Heolleung, something that was unthinkable in the past.

The main reason why the Joseon Royal Tombs being added to UNESCO world heritage site was that the structures surrounding the tombs, the spot where the tombs are placed have been maintained well, with good preservation of the way to take good care of the tombs.

They reveal the Joseon Dynasty’s unique perspective on the world, religion, and nature, with a naturalistic interment culture that differs from the Confucian styles of their neighbors. Another reason is that they are creative spaces that contain the ideas and artistic views of time as they were continually built over a period exceeding 500 years. The third reason is that they are spaces where the tradition of ancestral worship is inherited, with regular national sacrificial rituals.

The Joseon royal tombs are not just traditional spaces. They have become parks where ecology and the natural environment are well preserved. The paths of woods around the tombs are like gifts from the Joseon Dynasty.

Directions to Seonjeongneung

Take exit number 8, Seolleung Station subway line 2. The tomb is 10 minutes away on foot. Bus No. 472, 6411, 3420, 3219 also go to the tombs. Bongeunsa temple, COEX, and Dosan Park are nearby.

Admission Hours

6 a.m. to 9 p.m. (March-October), 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. (November-February)

Admission Fee

Entrance is 1,000 won. A monthly pass is 10,000 won. Lunchtime (12 p.m. to 1 p.m.) passes are 3,000 won for 10 visits. The tomb is closed every Monday.

Other info: Parking is 400 won for 10 minutes.

Seolleung Management Office 02-568-1291

Directions to Heonilleung

Take exit number 6 at Gangnam Station, subway line 2, or exit number 7 at Yangjae Station of subway line 3. Transfer to bus — No. 140, 407, 462, 471, 9411 or 4422 — and then get off at the Heonilleung stop.

By car, come out of Naegok interchange from the highway between Bundang and Naegok, and head toward the Heonilleung entrance.

Admission Hours

6 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. (March-October), 6:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (November-February)

Tickets can be purchased up to one hour before admission.

Admission Fee

Entrance fee is 1,000 won.

Other info: Parking is free of charge.

Heolleung Management Office 02-445-0347

2009.08.28

News Clippings

Presumed Portrait of Korea’s Last Empress Discovered

Another picture thought to show Korea’s last empress Myeongseong, also known as Queen Min, has been made public. There have been several portraits and photographs people thought depicted the empress, but each has eventually been swept away in controversy over their authenticity, leaving the appearance of the assassinated queen an unsolved mystery.
Over the last 22 years, Terry Bennett (56) has been collecting photographs from 19th century Korea, Japan and China. On Monday, he published a photo album of some of the 2,600 pieces of Korea-related materials in his collection, taken by a German photographer who traveled by way of China to the Korean Peninsula, where he took 33 pictures between 1894 and 1895, immediately preceding the incursion of Japanese assassins to Gyeongbok Palace to murder the empress. One of the pictures in this portfolio is thought to show Myeongseong.

Clockwise from top left, emperors Gojong and Sunjong, possibly empress Myeongseong, regent Heungseon (twice)./Provided by Terry Bennett/Yonhap

Bennett obtained the photographs from an antique bookseller three years ago. An expert on East Asia during the late Chosun period, he recognized that he might have a picture of the empress on his hands. The album arranges four pictures on each page. On the page in question, the picture on the left shows emperor Gojong and his second son, later the emperor Sunjong, on the right is a woman thought to be empress Myeongseong, and at the bottom are two pictures of the empress’ father-in-law, regent Heungseon.

 

A picture of emperor Sunjong and a picture presumed to be empress Myeongseong, included in an album by a German photographer who visited Korea between 1984 and 1985, released by English collector Terry Bennett./Yonhap

The caption to the picture reads, “Die Ermordete Königin” meaning “the assassinated queen.” The picture of regent Heungseon beneath appears to have been taken at the same spot.

To determine if the face in the picture is truly that of the last Empress, the photographer and background will have to be investigated, comparing the image with all the impressions of the empress that exist. That will require a concerted effort from academics. “If the picture in question is real, the fact that it is placed next to that of emperor Gojong and regent Heungseon, and that the background is the same as the picture of the regent are points that need looking into - it’s very interesting,” said Seoul National University historian Prof. Lee Tae-jin. “We’ll have to secure that picture from Bennett, and try to get to the bottom of this.”

(englishnews@chosun.com )

News Clippings

Korea Herald

This is the 40th in a series of articles highlighting tourism spots in Seoul. The guide for planning weekend trips in the capital city will help readers rediscover Seoul. - Ed.

By Annabelle Lee

 

 

“Hongdae” is simply the shortened form of Hongik University. Nevertheless, the name now refers to the area around Hongik University. It is known as a special cultural area where young indie bands play experimental music, and is the cultural cradle of underground clubs.

These clubs comprise a substantial proportion of the number of clubs nationwide. As a result, the front side of Hongdae is synonymous with “indie,” “non-mainstream,” and “underground.” That’s why music fans who are tired of the same old commercial music flock to Hongdae in search of unique and talented indie bands.

 

21 Clubs for 15,000 Won

 

Hongdae’s clubs are as various as they are numerous. There are clubs with live bands and dance clubs with DJs, which differ according to genre. Among these, M2 is famous for electronica, NB for hip-hop, and JOKER RED for techno. Evans and Water Cock specialize in Jazz. Of course, there are also clubs that cover several genres.

The best way to sample the Hongdae club culture is by attending Club Day. It is a magical music world that Hongdae clubs present from 8 p.m. to 6 a.m. on Friday of the last week of every month. For 15,000 won you get a bracelet and a drink ticket. With this bracelet, you can visit 21 participating clubs all night.

On other days, each club attracts clubbers with its own unique music and special events. When Club Day comes, almost all clubs involved prepare a special program. So, you have to check the hourly program, which also has the locations of all the clubs involved, and plan where to go in advance.

Of course, you can get the program at the door. However, we recommend you print it out through the club culture association homepage (http://www.clubculture.or.kr) or Hongdae Club Day (http://www.theclubday.co.kr) and plan your night in advance. You can wear anything you like, but you might want to avoid slippers or mules for the purpose of safety - they can easily come off in the excitement. Moderate exposure warms up the mood, but real Hongdae clubbers don’t expose themselves excessively or drink heavily. Also, liquor from outside sources, such as convenience stores, is not allowed in the clubs.

The best way to enjoy Club Day is to begin with the participating live band clubs starting from 8 o’clock. The performances usually last until midnight or 1 a.m. Afterward, you can move to the dance clubs where DJs present music until 6 a.m.

 

Evolution from studios to cafes, galleries, and clubs

 

What, then, is the reason why so many clubs are gathered in Hongdae? The Art school of Hongdae plays a big role. Hongdae is famous as the best and biggest art school in the country. The students, full of spirit and personality, attended the school and the surrounding area was a place where they gathered and worked. Those students, exploring novel and unique ideas, engaged in new, experimental activities. Art and music overflowed from their influence, enlarging the area to include cafes, galleries, and clubs.

Some examples, in the late 1980s, were the electric cafe, Electric, run by Hongdae Art school professor, Ahn Sang-su, in the form of a studio, OLO-OLO, run by Choi Jung-hwa, an installation artist, in front of Ewha Womans University, and Plastic Surgeon, run by the younger brother of author E-bul, at Sinchon. These formed the center of Seoul’s underground culture. Visitors increased, music was played, people danced naturally to the music, and occasional one-off performances were held. When the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games opened up a worldwide cultural exchange, it began dealing with even more diverse genres.

Hongdae has turned into a cultural region of its own. Clubs with different music and unique atmospheres have grown up and established new cultural icons. The Hongdae playground attracts people through a flea market on Saturdays, and a “hope market” on Sundays. Along with street art exhibitions every year, wall pictures on every corner and alleyway add to the ambience.

 

100th Club Day

 

Club Day has now entered its 8th year, with the 100th meeting coming on Aug. 28. When Club Day started, 1,000 people attended. Nowadays, there is an average of 10,000 attendees and 15,000 are expected for the 100th Club Day. The occasion will be marked in the most Korean way, with a pig head, makgeolli, and siru rice cakes in front of the Hongdae Imagination Square. A bazaar with the belongings of 100 artists, all graduates of Hongdae, will be held.

Hongdae clubs don’t have any barriers to age, gender, or nationality. You need only to be ready to enjoy the music with an open mind. The bigger, more well-known clubs are good, but visit the small clubs, too. Each of them has its own charm and character.

 

Miss Myvanwy Birds is from Ireland. She has become a Hongdae club fan since she came to Korea two years ago. She plays the harp. Hongdae music and her classical music seem to be unrelated. However, there is a saying that all music is connected in one way or another. She says she gets musical inspiration and community from Hongdae, where a diversity of music such as Jazz, hip hop, and others are living. Her favorite clubs are 500 and Agitpunkt. She also enjoys Club Day, and visits at least 5 6 clubs on nights it is held.

Picture gallery Cafe Dream

 

On the way to a Hongdae alley (also home to the cafe from the drama “Coffee Prince”) is Cafe Dream. It has a neat and simply designed interior. As a picture gallery cafe, picture related books are on the shelves, and a picture exhibition by Mr. Gyum Lee to support Bolivian children is held. Under the pictures are comments from visitors and they are sold on the spot. Of course, cafe drinks are available. For inquiries, call 02 338 7077, or visit www.kkoomm.com.

Makgeolli specialty house, Chin Chin

 

Looking away from the entrance of Hongdae, there is a makgeolli house, Chin Chin, on your right hand side. It’s interior is similar to that of a fine wine bar, but it sells a Korean traditional rice wine, makgeolli. There are also variations, offering even makgeolli sherbet, makgeolli ice cream, and makgeolli espresso. For inquiry, call 02 334 1476.

 

2009.08.21

News Clippings