UNSRC Korean Cultural Society

English Chosun Ilbo

The rooftops of the traditional Korean houses or hanok resemble a rolling wave, but beyond them lie the skyscrapers and the N Seoul Tower of Mt. Namsan. Here is a place where the Chosun Dynasty coexists with modern Korea. The Bukchon Hanok Village, nestled between the Gyeongbok and Changdeok palaces is popular with both Koreans and foreigners, inviting for a leisurely stroll as well as a structured tour of the cultural assets and an experience program.

◆ Walking Tour Around Bukchon

The Chosun Ilbo went on the cultural asset tour with a guide from Jongno district, Yoo Gang-ryul (56). It starts from the Bukchon Culture Center behind the Hyundai group headquarters right by Anguk subway station on the orange Line 3. The center’s exhibition hall offers a look at Bukchon’s history and transformation, and the evolution of hanoks. Poor scholars, we learn, brewed liquor in the Namsangol Namchon area to the south in the old days, but the wealthy palace workers of Bukchon to the north enjoyed their rice cakes. After Chosun fell, the antiques that had belonged to the rich of Bukchon trickled into what is now Insadong, says Yoo.

Gahoedong 31st street, the most beautiful alley of historic houses in Bukchon village

It is these details the guides offer and which are rarely found in tour books that make the tour special. Behind the walls and across the grandiose Changdeok palace buildings lies the newly renovated Eun Deok Culture Center of Won-Buddhism. In the Chosun era, it was part of the capital’s defenses.

The nearby Ott-Painting Research Institute Chilwon, also renovated, has an impressive front courtyard and spacious verandah. Passing the quarters of Korea’s last empress Myeongseong (Queen Min) and turning into an alley, we find Gahoedong 31st street, a must-see alley with the biggest cluster of hanoks. Each roof conforms to the similar style but is uniquely different, and the walls of the homes are within arm’s reach of each other. A street of humble homes between Jeongdok Public Library and Samcheongdonggil is under major construction. New homes are being built and old ones renovated. In front of the library are several pretty tea houses and restaurants. Walking past the home of Ex-president Yun Po-sun from the library’s front gate, we return to Anguk station and the tour ends. For inquiries, call the Jongno-Gu Office Tourism Division (02)731-0851.

◆ Abundance of Museums, Galleries, Workshops

The Seoul Metropolitan Government also offers a tour program for groups of two or more people, by appointment only three days ahead for individuals and five days for groups over 10. It is also available in English, Chinese and Japanese. For spontaneous tours, a cultural expert is also stationed daily at the Bukchon Culture Center. All tours are free of charge. Call the Seoul Metropolitan Government Tourism Marketing Division at (02) 2171-2459.

If not pressed for time, just go for a walk around Bukchon. A map of tours and major landmarks, picking out historical houses, museums, galleries, workshops and sites that offer a true hanok experience, is available at the center.